Identifying Syncarpia, Arethusa Falls, Blue Mountains NP

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Identifying Syncarpia, Arethusa Falls, Blue Mountains NP

Postby marron » Sat 27 Apr, 2024 10:01 pm

Last week I popped down the Horse Track from Evans Lookout, Blackheath, to Govetts Creek on a short daywalk, Headed up to Edenderry Falls and back, to check so I can take the kids when we are next down that way (yes, I can, is the answer). This got me thinking about the actual location of the "Syncarpia" campsite around there. There's a few nice spots, but which one's the real one that is mentioned in those heyday 1930s accounts? When I got home I did some digging and found the thread on here. Added a bit to it and while digging around came across the Arethusa Falls discrepancy (with most maps up until the Katoomba 3rd edition putting them well up the canyon, even though most authorities put them where the canyon emerges at Carne Wall. I've got some thoughts about that - I'll be doing another recce further up, east of the Medlow airfield I hope - but, I could hardly say I've covered all the bases without visiting the "proper" ones!

So, today. Lots of photos. Happy to turn to links if too many.

Aim then: I aimed to head down the Horse Track again, photograph the possible Syncarpia sites, and then bang on up Govetts to Arethusa - if possible. I was on a shortish timeframe - when I originally wanted to do it I'd assumed I'd camp. But the sun was out, I'm back at work next week, who knows when I'll next be able to do that, and curiosity was burning. So the plan was, do Syncarpia, head up till around lunchtime, and turn back after that from wherever i got to.

Gear: 2L water (not enough for little old me, as it turned out, but i aimed to top up), first aid (including treatment, snake bandage, emergency blanket, PLB), spot of lunch,and a bit of extra supplies, stove for a spot of tea if so inclined (answer: no) or miso dinner (not required). And the trusty vegemite volleys.

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Arrived at Evans Lookout around 8ish. Had a chat with some fellas heading to Edenderry falls and swapped some track notes about the Syncarpia area and Greaves creek. Then hoofed it down to the horsetrack junction and was there at 815. As mentioned elsewhere, the track crew are slowly but surely working their way down and it's looking great. They've done the steep bit with lots of sandstone steps and are pushing down on to the more gentle slopes with gravel and wooden steps. Will be a doddle when it's done, and I expect not as quiet as it used to be. Later in the day on my way back I passed several groups pushing up from Acacia Flat.

Doggers rest:

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By 850 I was at the old Horse Track/Rodriguez Pass junction.

Note the reference to Govetts Leap - not open yet, not being opened anytime soon, but it's obviously still part of the plan:

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Old horse track sign is still there:

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I however, took a right turn up Govetts Creek. Okay, let's roll through the Syncarpia candidates.

Here's a helpful map. Sorry it's the 2nd ed, was all I had lying around - Edenderry, Hilary and Arethusa all mislabelled. But will suffice to identify what I wanted to look at - and where I was heading, up Govetts to where it bends around Carne Wall

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Okay, Red first. This is the first one you come across and is well used. With Rodriguez closed, you'll need to know it's there, but it used to be about 10 metres off that track. Not a great photo, the light was not great.

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I then crossed Govetts Creek and started heading upstream to have a look at the blue site, almost opposite the junction with Greaves. It’s a nice spot, although quite dark/dank in the shadow of Fortress Ridge all day long. Still, some open spaces and fire pits.

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At this point I looked for the most easy crossing past the junction and there kind of wasn't one. I have a general rule to try keep my feet dry for as long as possible; took me a little while, but when I crossed back I knew I would be now above the yellow site. I got it on the way back. I think it's the most likely candidate for the original site but there have been little landslides and flooding etc and the grass and scrub is very high. You could do it, but I don't think it's what it was. Here is the edge of a landslide across the flat. The one mark against it is that the Syncarpia trees themselves aren’t actually very widespread. There's a few biggies down through the area. I don't know.

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Then, onwards to the purple site up around Blackwall Glen. It's more a collection of a few good but small spots in some lovely turpentine forest.

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And the Glen itself

Image.

Fanged it past Edenderry having been there less than a week ago for a swim. I should mention that after the overgrown yellow spot, there's a very easy to find pad running all the way up to these falls.

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Next stop was Hilary Falls, I believe. The pad was still there for it too.

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By this stage it was just shy of 10. Could I get to Arethusa in a couple of hours? I was going to try! But things started to get tricky.
I passed another falls, but the pad was trending up. Given there was evidence of landslides this suited me fine. I believe there are at least a couple more falls to see if you stick to the creek bed, but I missed them. So I don’t know which these are.

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Unfortunately I didn't miss my old nemesis Smilax:

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And it didn't miss me (photo taken this evening). If only I could say I hadn't had worse!

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The pad would be okay for a little but then hit a big patch. I was now well above the turpentine/sassafras with its easy walking creekside, and was loathe to descend to it, knowing that the falls were still above my elevation, even if it didn't have a significant drop to contend with, which it did. I found I could hold a line to keep the lawyer vine above me, and get some clear walking, but it was hard going. Eventually, after literally being held stretched out a half metre off the ground by a mattress of creepers, I decided enough was enough. I would try and head down to clearer walking - and hopefully a canyoners pad which surely didn't take this approach - and if not, give it up for today. Within ten minutes or so I found it would be the first one. I had observed the slot for Dr Dark's Cave earlier:

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And was now about level with it. I could also see the Arethusa canyon where it joins with... the other one, I forget. But the end was in sight!

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From here, I picked up an easier pad again and pushed on. Soon I could hear the roar of what must be the Medusa Falls, and spotted some pink tape:

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Some large boulders navigated, I soon found myself on top of Medusa falls with a lovely look back at the Dark slot. I've stood up there looking down at this set of falls and it was a nice moment!

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Now a decision; I could see the creek coming down a mini canyon on the left bank, with Carne Wall closing in very steeply, but it disappeared around a corner. On the right bank, some boulders and perhaps the opportunity of clambering up that way. I chose the latter, just not wanting to negotiate any cascades/mini falls. This took me much higher then I had anticipated due to some very large boulders above the creek. But I started to see glimpses of first Vida falls and then Arethusa itself. Finally I was before them both. Tired, I, uh, missed the bottom and top in my photo.

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I contemplated the barefoot bushwalker Dot English and others being the first to climb up the falls by holding on to the roots of plants, almost 90 years ago. They apparently eventually gave way but perhaps there are others that could afford some leverage now.



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It was now almost 12 o'clock. I resolved to head back down to the lower falls and have some lunch there before checking out the other Syncarpia. I tried to stick to the pad - and did so but soon found myself in the same predicament as before, with some now very tired, scratched and weary limbs to boot. Following a few pink tags at first, I was soon well above the rainforest below. The problem was there a significant landslide at one point not far above Hilary falls which I had crossed as I started to head up the talus; i didn't want to end up below it if I could help it, or in he creek bouldering, so kept at it. I did however have a bit more success staying on the pad, traversed the landslide and got down to Edenderry where I had a break and refilled and treated some water. (Hmm, yeah. A bit of dehydration setting in? Or a bit dodgy? Had a few grumbles and gurgles the rest of the walk). I made the junction of Greaves and Govetts by about 150, the Horse Track by about 2/210, and then dragged by sorry bum up to Evans Lookout, which I finally made at about 330. The morning sun had prevented me taking a photo of my intended journey, but I took a last look:

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If you know where to look you can see the Greaves/Govetts junction, and then Govetts Ck heading up the other side of the spur coming down from Carne Wall, including Blackwall Glen. You can spot the slot of Dr Dark's cave but not where Arethusa emerges.

So, a fairly successful day out. Not half buggered though!
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Re: Identifying Syncarpia, Arethusa Falls, Blue Mountains NP

Postby Allchin09 » Fri 10 May, 2024 3:45 pm

Great write up, thanks for sharing!
Tackling the unknown and the awesome one adventure at a time!

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Re: Identifying Syncarpia, Arethusa Falls, Blue Mountains NP

Postby skibug » Fri 10 May, 2024 4:05 pm

Thanks Marron, this is now on the bucket list!

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Re: Identifying Syncarpia, Arethusa Falls, Blue Mountains NP

Postby marron » Fri 10 May, 2024 5:48 pm

No worries!

Edenderry, Hilary and the fall above there are all still quite accesible without too much fuss, a largely clear path in most parts before it starts to get difficult.

Next time (if!) I go I'll want to take some more time (camp, probably) and try and stay creek side to see if that's any easier. If anyone has a crack at going all the way by doing the same before I do, please let me know if it's worth it haha. My scratches are still visible, and had people concerned about me a work!



I also just realised I confused the yellow and purple crosses in my write up as well.
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Re: Identifying Syncarpia, Arethusa Falls, Blue Mountains NP

Postby tom_brennan » Tue 14 May, 2024 8:18 am

Great report Marron! Interesting to see the recent trackwork/signage.

(Not sure if you can still edit the post - to change Alethusa -> Arethusa )
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Re: Identifying Syncarpia, Arethusa Falls, Blue Mountains NP

Postby marron » Tue 14 May, 2024 5:43 pm

Damn, yeah, no I can't. I'll blame tiredness after my exertions.
Or just adding to the misidentifying mysteries.Haha.

On the signage, yeah - what's interesting as well are the times given, which I only just noticed.

Evans lookout 2-3 hours - about right as far as they go.
Neates Glen Carpark via the Grand Canyon 2.5 - 3.5 - wow. That's going to mess some people up potentially. 3/4 of the Grand Canyon loop, and not the bit that's flat, in half an hour? Having just hoofed it up the horsetrack after an hour or two from Acacia Flat? I don't think so..... :/

I mean.... I think I could do the lot in that time, but, on the surface, it's weird to estimate the horse track alone as slow going and then tacking on the Grand Canyon at a very decent pace. (I'm thinking someone just made a mistake).
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Re: Identifying Syncarpia, Arethusa Falls, Blue Mountains NP

Postby tom_brennan » Thu 16 May, 2024 3:49 pm

marron wrote:Damn, yeah, no I can't. I'll blame tiredness after my exertions.

Moderator Lophophaps has kindly updated them since the edit window expired.

marron wrote:On the signage, yeah - what's interesting as well are the times given, which I only just noticed.

Evans lookout 2-3 hours - about right as far as they go.
Neates Glen Carpark via the Grand Canyon 2.5 - 3.5 - wow. That's going to mess some people up potentially. 3/4 of the Grand Canyon loop, and not the bit that's flat, in half an hour? Having just hoofed it up the horsetrack after an hour or two from Acacia Flat? I don't think so..... :/

I mean.... I think I could do the lot in that time, but, on the surface, it's weird to estimate the horse track alone as slow going and then tacking on the Grand Canyon at a very decent pace. (I'm thinking someone just made a mistake).


Well, if it had said Neates Glen car park via Grand Canyon Road, then the differential times would be about right!
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Re: Identifying Syncarpia, Arethusa Falls, Blue Mountains NP

Postby marron » Sun 09 Jun, 2024 10:14 pm

Alright

Rather than post a new trip report I'll just add on my explorations today to this one. Unlike the last one there was no track/pad or anything like.
edit: Images are too big or something, I'll drop links.

Identifying Arethusa Falls Part Two!

The aim today was to try and see if there was anything at the spot on the the turn of the century tourist maps identified as Arethusa Falls, near the junction of Katoomba Creek and Govetts Creek. I'm pretty comfortable/happy that whatever is there is not Arethusa - that's the falls detailed above. But... there's got to be something there. Because in 1897 theres this description:

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It's from a section on blue mountains attractions, listed under "Medlow". Woolwich was on the point pilcher Rd. (now I'm also curious as to what the Giant's Grave is!)

And in following years these maps are published:

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Both showing a track into the creek after deviating off the Pt Pilcher/Grand Canyon Rd.

So, taking more or less the same gear as last time, I set out this morning, drove up past the Airfield and parked the car, followed the firetrail till it hung a left towards the (modern) Pt Pilcher lookout, and then headed bush.

I'd identified a likely spur above the big dog leg in the creek. Katoomba Topo map shows cliff edges mostly but a bit of a more gentle (ha!) slope to the east of the supposed access route. I made for that and found the spur fairly easily. I had thought that maybe the track on the tourist maps was just a vantage point for something. Here is the view from the spur:

https://i.ibb.co/TTKdkq4/20240609-105806.jpg


The knoll in the centre is above where Govetts (on the left) and Katoomba (on the right) meet. I don't think it likely at all that a vantage point to the junction would be possible from anywhere.

I started trying to pick a path down to the creek bed. This proved difficult. At various points I got close to the creek but there were large, drops on wet mossy sandstone which would require ropes. The track on the tourist maps seems to follow a gully of sorts but I got more or less to the end and was confronted with about a 10-15 metre drop. So no go. To cut a long story short I worked my way east to the next gully along and finally found a route down to the creek bed before actually getting to the gully. This was a lovely spot. I investigated this other gully but again ropes/ladders would be required to get down.

I then started to make my way up Govetts Creek, first coming to a wide pool with a little "twin" falls (actually a third one hidden, too)

https://i.ibb.co/n6j8c5g/20240609-122252.jpg

A bit of a scramble up the left there and over to the next section:

https://i.ibb.co/P5gBVH8/20240609-122858.jpg

Some really nice canyon sections overall. The creekbed was very sandy, and I sank a few times up to thigh level.

Before too long I got to the spot where the creek of the first gully dropped in. I could not see an easy or clear route out anywhere near here - as I said, about 10-15 metres perhaps. Maybe a little lower in places, but largely sheer. Just a no go. So.... I don't know what this track on the maps was supposed to do. Perhaps there were some ladders.

I pushed on further, hoping to get to the "Arethusa spot". This was not easy going - if tourists did make their way down by a route I'd missed, they would have had to wade a lot up the creek, which in some sections was constricted with no banks, and deep. It has been raining. Perhaps it is normally a bit drier - I doubt it would make a huge difference though.

When I got to within about 200m of the junction, I was confronted with this:

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Not much to look at, but this was deep, and constricted with cut-outs under the cliffs on each side. This would most likely require a swim. I ummed and ahhed for a good while but decided against it in the end. Partly, after wading and sinking in sand for a good hour or two, I was not wanting to submerge in the full cold without a dry set of clothes or a guarantee of keeping my clothes dry in my bag which only had a small wet bag for my phone and such. It killed me to leave the mystery of the now mythological junction unsolved but I think it was the right decision for today. Partly I thought, well, that's an excuse for another walk by trying to get down there from the other direction via Bruce's walk. I returned, taking a slightly different route out via the eastern gully back to the spur.

Overall though a really nice section of the creek with some classically lovely temperate rainforest. As I said I can see tourists back in the day having a nice day out in this section, even if it's unclear just how they made their way down (if they did at all). Incidentally Dunphy had "Syncarpia" listed down near the junction - I didn't see a single turpentine tree (not that I thought he had that bit right). (Should also note in this thread the tourist maps above are apparently from his collection, which probably explains his labelling).
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