Car Camping the Flinders

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Car Camping the Flinders

Postby photohiker » Mon 07 Oct, 2013 5:53 pm

We recently did a trip through the Flinders Ranges with some friends staying at some accomodation or established campgrounds each night:

Prairie Hotel Overflow Accommodation. (Donga's)
This was el basic accommodation in what are similar to the mining site Donga's you might find in the outback. Cost was $60 per Donga with included access to showers etc. The Donga was airconditioned with an old through-wall unit which was well up to the task. Once the temperature of the day was erased from the room, it stayed down and the noisy AC could be turned off. Bed was comfortable and all of our party had a good nights rest, especially after dinner at the Prairie hotel itself. The Prairie Hotel also offers luxury units should you wish.

Rawnsley Park CampGround.
Rawnsley Park is a well known and cheery place with lots of options ranging from cabins to bush camp sites. There is a large camp kitchen which is very handy if you are a late arrival as we were, as well as spacious and clean toilet/shower blocks spread about the site. We arrived when the place was virtually booked out but still managed to find a suitable bush camp site for our party. It was basically crawling with people, and a lot more congested than other times I have been there - still managed fine.

Grindell's Hut
Note that the accommodation isn't actually in Grindells Hut. The actual hut is behind the house, just as well as there was a nasty murder perpetrated by the occupant. :shock:
The House has been renovated and is a very pleasant place to stay in such a remote area. The Gammons have been devoid of useful rain for some time, and the ranger asked that we minimise the use of fire as they are concerned about the fire risk so early in the season. The house has gas cooking so we were happy to comply. We used the house as a base for several bushwalks, one up to Bunyip Chasm and another down Balcanoona Creek. Great country, well worth a visit.

Arkaroola Sanctuary
Arkaroola is a private sanctuary and one definitely worth visiting. The campground is a basic affair with good toilet/shower facilities. If you're tired of your own cooking, dinner is available at the restaurant. Again, the place was teeming with people compared to my other visits, but still coped well and was a pleasant stay. We did one of the 'Extreme' 4WD tracks and had a most interesting time of it, visiting interesting outlooks, waterholes, and steep hillsides to scare the passengers.

Wilpena Pound Resort
Of the high-traffic campgrounds, this was the most pleasant. Campsites are distributed along winding trails among native pines and the ground is well prepared for camping and fire pits prepared. There are open camp kitchens and several well designed and clean toilet/shower blocks within easy walking distance. There is a ranger HQ on site with helpful staff in attendance. A shop supplies food and coffeee as well as a good range of camp supplies and souvenirs. We arrived late in the day so decided to catch the bus out to the trailhead for a walk up to the lookout - the bus driver got off the bus at our stop and gave us a helpful and informative talk about the area and where to find the trail etc. Wilpena in my view is one of the best run parks in Australia (but I haven't seen them all)

Bendleby Ranges
Bendlby Ranges is a large farm property that has taken on a role of supplying camping facilities and 4WD tracks. It's in the southern Flinders area but is still red dirt country. Campers have a choice of near camp sites with access to toilets and showers or remote sites which have a long drop loo only. All sites are pleasantly distant from one another, so even when Bendleby is busy, you hardly know it. A pleasant campsite to finish the trip.

On previous forays into the outback, I have usually pitched our car camping tent, a Black Wolf Turbo Tent. It's a good sturdy tent and it pitches relatively quickly for it's size. The downside is that it's 20kg of canvas and aluminium that has to be rolled in the dirt to stuff it into an impossibly tight bag. This trip I took a Swag. I've slept in swags before, but not one of the new types with pseudo tent shape and aluminium hoop poles to raise the canvas. I'm a convert. This thing literally pitches with just 2 pegs and I can pitch it or pack it in 2 minutes flat without breaking a sweat.

Image
Swag pitched at Wilpena
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Re: Car Camping the Flinders

Postby simonm » Mon 07 Oct, 2013 6:17 pm

Good one Michael . There is some nice country out that way isn't there. Definitely swag country.
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Re: Car Camping the Flinders

Postby gayet » Mon 07 Oct, 2013 6:52 pm

Glad to hear the crowds weren't a problem. Now when will the images be available?

:)
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Re: Car Camping the Flinders

Postby Eremophila » Sun 13 Oct, 2013 4:55 pm

photohiker wrote:Grindell's Hut
Note that the accommodation isn't actually in Grindells Hut. The actual hut is behind the house, just as well as there was a nasty murder perpetrated by the occupant. :shock:


When was the murder??? I happened upon Grindells with some fellow travellers back in 1987, we were exploring and found the place at the end of a rather rough 4WD access road. We camped overnight in the hut, as I recall it had a solar shower hung up in one room and an awesome fireplace.

There were a couple of citrus trees in front of the house from which we scavenged a few oranges. Work early in the morning to see hundreds of goats on the surrounding hillsides - hopefully their numbers have been reduced these days.

Keen to get back up there some time and do some walking.
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Re: Car Camping the Flinders

Postby photohiker » Sun 13 Oct, 2013 11:30 pm

The murder was some time before 1918 when Grindell was tried and found guilty: http://www.southaustralianhistory.com.au/grindell.htm

The actual 'Grindell's Hut' is behind the homestead. It's a small single roomed stone dwelling with corrugated iron roof. There is a plaque there now with a short description of the event.

The homestead consists of several rooms now: Lounge, Kitchen, 2 bedrooms under main roof, an extra bedroom in the enclosed verandah along with a bathroom with flushing loo and bath/shower, Laundry, and store room. It has a gas cooker and hot water, low voltage solar lighting system. It's in fine condition having been renovated in the last 10-15 years. Fireplace is still there, assuming it is the same one.

The road is still rough but passable from the Arkaroola road with a minimally competent AWD vehicle and careful driver. Beyond Grindells the road deteriorates and requires good ground clearance and approach/departure angles over the dry creek crossings.

The citrus trees died a few years ago and have been replanted. The rangers ask that visitors give them a drink once a week to help them survive. Didn't see many goats in that area, but there are still plenty in the Flinders. There are some old bush goat yards just down from the homestead, perhaps they cleared them out...

Definitely worth the visit for the vista and walking. Bunyip Chasm and the Balcanoona Creek hikes are on OpenStreetMap now. (Switch to the Cycle Map layer to see contours)
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Re: Car Camping the Flinders

Postby philm » Fri 18 Oct, 2013 10:15 am

Hi Micheal

Thanks for posting the report.

Grindells is a great spot to visit and do day walks into the Gammon's. It is truely remote and beautiful country - you just need to be careful the time of year to visit. We went in April and this was a great month - had 10mm of rain one night and nearly go rained in with the creeks rising to about 1 metre overnight! Definately need a 4WD to access.

We also did a day walk to Mount John Roberts which is a side trip on the way to Bunyip Chasm - really great views. The best book written on walks in the Gammons is by Heard - now out of print but can be sourced thru second hand dealers.

In terms of camping grounds in the South I much prefer Wilpina to Rawnsley Park - more sheltered with great trees and shade. Also good access into the Pound itself.
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Re: Car Camping the Flinders

Postby photohiker » Fri 18 Oct, 2013 11:05 am

Thanks Phil,

I've been looking for that book for a while, no luck yet... Mount John Roberts sounds good, will add it to the next Gammons itinerary.

We've previously been in the area in August, and the weather has been more agreeable. Mid 30's is ok, wouldn't want it any hotter though.

Notable lack of Sturt's Desert Pea this trip.
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