Heysen Trail, Cape Jervis to Victor Harbor

[photohiker]

I’ve been planning this trip for some time, some may remember my failed first attempt which was blown off the map by freak weather the day of my start. This time, I decided to beat the changeable weather at its own game: I would travel down on the early bus (6:45am) - the bus doesn’t run if the weather is lousy and the ferry to Kangaroo Island is not running. Easier said than done though, the counter jumper at the bus station wouldn’t sell me a ticket for the early bus, and claimed that the only bus I could get on was the afternoon service.

Back home and online, I easily purchased a $24 seat on the 6:45 bus and on the day was duly handed an orange pass at the bus station. On arrival at Cape Jervis, I realised that if I just cleared off without handing in the orange pass there might be some angst while they searched for me, so I handed it to the bus driver as I collected my pack and said “I don’t need this” to which he replied, “yes you do, you need it to get on the ferry” He was somewhat taken aback by my response: “I’m not going on the ferry” Apparently the morning busses are charter services, and only intended to carry tourists to the KI ferry. It seems I just drove a truck through a rather large hole in their system. haha. After my screwing with their system, this may not be an easy task to repeat in the future, but if you keep quiet there is no reason you couldn’t buy a ticket on the ferry as well, but just not get on it... This whole episode caused me much amusement at the start of the walk.

[photohiker]

Day 1. Cape Jervis to Eagle Waterhole Campsite. 16.55Km, Total Ascent 696m, Av moving speed 4.3km/h

I couldn’t find any potable water at the start, so I added another packaged water bottle from the ferry terminal to top up my supply to 1.1L and started about 9:20am on a clear and cool day. The beginning was uneventful with walking through pasture and coastal scrubland with good views across Backstairs Passage to KI and the diminishing ferry that I was somehow supposed to be on.


Near the start, looking south

Destination for the day was Cobbler Hill and perhaps Eagle waterhole depending on progress. Once I warmed up, I was walking in a light thermal top. Had Lunch at Blowhole Beach where a surfer ran over to me asking to have a cut on his shoulder doused with my precious water. The only other people I saw during the day were a couple of old ladies walking their dogs on a lonely beach in the middle of nowhere. After arriving too early at Cobbler Hill I decided to top up my water from the tank (70% full) and move on to Eagle Waterhole.


Cobbler Hill facilities


Cobbler Hill Campground

On arriving at Eagle Waterhole I found an even more full watertank and a school group occupying the prime camping area, but I located a nice quiet spot behind the shelter. Campsite was well treed, and I thought there were hammock pitches there.


Eagle Waterhole Campsite

I got swooped and dive bombed by one of the resident maggies! Surprised to find phone reception here, and a walk up the hill from the campsite gave very good reception.


Pitch at Eagle Waterhole

[photohiker]

Day 2. Eagle Waterhole Campsite to Tunkalilla Beach. 19.49km, Total Ascent 801m, Av moving speed 3.9km/h

Up early as I usually am on a walk, had brekky of muesli and a cuppa tea before packing up and wandering behind the bushes for my morning ablutions only to get dive bombed by the *&%$#! maggie again! Intended destination is at least Tuppanappa and perhaps Tunkalilla Beach if I make good progress. Found much steepness up and down and found the terrain challenging but still reached Tuppanappa around midday. (two toilets and tanks, one at 70% and the other at 90%, didn’t see the promised shelter) Hammock sites no problems here.


Tapanappa Campground


Tapanappa self-registration point

Walked on down to Boat Harbour Beach via the apparently new trail re-route and very pleasant cascading waterfall. Hard to imagine Boat Harbour Beach as any sort of Harbour, very rough and rocky!


Boat Harbor Beach

On to Tunkalilla Beach which was an absolute beauty. Didn’t see any sharks, but did see a seal and a dolphin pod put on an amazing surfing show for me. Great stuff! With all the indecision about official campsites at Tunkalilla , I scouted about and found a site just above the beach that was great. I guess its not something they can encourage though, if everyone camped here it would be degraded pretty quickly I think.


Sun setting on Tunkalilla Beach


Pitch above Tunkalilla Beach

I consoled myself that it was grassed and adjacent to farmland and enjoyed the camp, falling asleep to the sound of thundering waves pounding the beach no that far away. Turned on the phone and found signal again. What? I thought most of this walk was out of range?

By now, I had realised that the hipbelt on my new pack was too large, so I emailed Aarn to see if I could get hold of a smaller size (I already knew there were none in Australia) - later on he replied yes and we organised it on the trail. I was even able to paypal the payment from the top of a hill.

No Hammock sites that I saw at Tunkalilla beach - there are some houses with stands of trees nearby, so it might be possible as the houses don’t appear to be occupied (no lights)

No water here. Just as well I topped up by supplies and filled my platy at Eagle waterhole.

[photohiker]

Day 3. Tunkalilla Beach to Waitpinga Campsite. 22.21km, Total Ascent 662m, Av moving speed 4.4km/h

Woke early and rose to witness a pearly sunrise from the beach rock formations below my campsite. Probably the unusually loud ocean noise and the strong moonlight on the tent may have had something to do with that. In any case, it was a magnificent place to be at dawn. Also of note re sleeping: my WM Ultralite sleeping bag is too warm for these temps - the weather didn’t get below 10C minimum on any night and I often started the night lying on top of the bag with the temps into the teens.


Sunrise on Tunkalilla Beach


River crossing on Tunkalilla Beach

Once packed and fed, I set off down towards the eastern end of Tunkalilla beach (the whole beach is about 4.5km long) and eventually followed the signs leading off the beach and up behind Tunk head. And I do mean up! The sign at the bottom says ‘walkers follow fence’ and the fence goes straight up a grassy slope about as steep as you can reasonably climb. My GPS recorded 110m elevation gain in 300m.


Walkers follow fence. Yea, ok.


Not too steep...

At the top of the slope I was rewarded with a short downhill section and then a steady uphill climb through cattle pasture with good expansive views of the countryside. Eventually, this bliss was replaced by despair as the path dumped out onto a hard roadwalk for 4-5km and past the Balquhidder campsite.


Balquhidder campsite.

Balquhidder has no facilities or water. There was a somewhat dirty and slow running creek there, so perhaps you could use it with a filter and steripen, but as it was still too early to camp I just stopped for lunch and pressed on. The camp area itself is pleasant enough, and there are trees so I expect one might hang a hammock there too.

What followed was a long, sometimes steep, grassy track walk through farmland and alongside a creek to get back to sea level at a rocky beach known as a breeding ground for Hooded Plovers (of which none were in evidence, although I did see some on Parsons beach a bit later)


Hooded Plovers signage.

Some more more cliff edge trail walking followed and then onto Parsons beach, Parsons lookout and Waitpinga beach and then the Waitpinga campsite. Ever since I hit the first beach I had been seeing fresh footprints in the sand, and they got fresher and fresher the further I went. I caught the owners at the Parsons beach lookout - another school group that had started at Balquhidder that morning and were apparently making a hard slog of the beach walking. The lookout had toilets and water. The water tank had 2 taps - the bottom one yielded rusty water and the top one clean and fresh but very slow running, maybe not a lot of water in the tank!



Rock formations on Parsons Beach

Waitpinga campsite is well laid out in a grassed area behind the dunes. Tank water available and pleasant tasting from a masonry tank. Toilets (a bit smelly) and trees. Yes, probably could hang a hammock here too! I set camp amongst some trees to shade the moon and the lights and had a pleasant nights sleep.

[photohiker]

Day 4. Waitpinga Campsite to Victor Harbor holiday park. 18.75km, Total Ascent 387m, Av moving speed 4.8km/h

Waitpinga was the first campsite with actual rubbish facilities so far and I took great pleasure dumping my rubbish bag and the few pieces I had collected along the trail. Off again a bit after 8am to walk the sandy track out of Waitpinga mostly gently uphill and reaching the cliffs via scrubland and erosion reclamation areas in about 3-4km. Awesome views into the sun of King Head and West Island each time the trail re-emerged onto the cliff tops. I had a break at a full size Picnic table installed by the Friends of the Heysen in memory of Peter Hill, a past official in the club and maintainer of this section of the trail.


Looking toward King Head from the picnic table.


King Head and West Island

From there the walking was easy and pleasant. Mostly downhill and breaking out of the scrub a few times for magnificent views of the southern ocean rolling onto the dark slabs at the base of the cliffs. The scrubland was replaced by grassy hillsides as the trail approached King Head and King beach where the Heysen Trail leaves the coast and heads inland. At this point, I left the Heysen and continued on the coastal track and into Encounter Bay and Victor Harbor stopping at the first restaurant I came across for a feed of fish and chips on the beach washed down by a cold beer! Stayed overnight at the Victor Holiday park where my tent looked quite out of place nestled in between massive caravans and motor homes! Dinner at the Hotel Victor where they redefine value for money pub meals. The roast of the day, (small) was more than I could eat and only $14. Hate to see the large...

Bus home in the morning, thus ending my first Heysen interlude.

[jez_au]

Hey good to hear you got out there after your last episode! Looking forward to some photos.

[photohiker]

Hey good to hear you got out there after your last episode! Looking forward to some photos.

Hi Jeremy,

Thanks, it was a good trip, really enjoyed it.

Photos are up. More in my gallery Happy for you to use any for the Friends website if it helps.

[jcr_au]

Good report.

Sounds like you had a good time, which is excellent.

We've only done that section from Cape Jervis to Tunkalilla , and the first day we had 30mm of rain (according to the ranger we met the next day) but once the sun came out it was great.

Those dolphins near Tunkalilla must be permanent residents, when we came down to boat harbour beach they were playing with 3 surfers - magical sight.

We had a very late lunch at the eastern end of the beach and there were some hand made keep off the vegetation signs. One of the locals came out and I'm sure she was going to tell us off but when she saw we were old farts like her we were invited in to have cake & french press coffee, how goods that.

And that climb off the beach, that fence is a welcome handrail isn't it.

[jez_au]

Happy for you to use any for the Friends website if it helps.

Hey, top photos! I will use a couple, that's good of you. It's always good to update some older photos for more recent ones, and the photo of Blaquihidder campsite, limited in what is there, shows the stile which wasn't there before. I will send you the links the photos I use, cheers.

[photohiker]

the photo of Blaquihidder campsite, limited in what is there, shows the stile which wasn't there before.

Just remembered I actually have a photo of the stile, it has 'Camp' pictograms on it:

[jez_au]

I actually have a photo of the stile, it has 'Camp' pictograms on it

Thanks, top work. I will include that. There is a shelter and water tank going in soon, obviously the camp icons are an interim measure before a sign is put up. Government departments move sloooowly.

[jez_au]

Thanks Michael, have used some of your photos on the following pages:

http://www.heysentrail.asn.au/forums/viewtopic.php?t=582&accom_id=582&name=Balquhidder Camp Site
http://www.heysentrail.asn.au/forums/viewtopic.php?t=581&accom_id=581&name=Tunkalilla Beach (new 2010)
http://www.heysentrail.asn.au/forums/viewtopic.php?t=245&accom_id=245&name=Cobbler Hill Camp Site
http://www.heysentrail.asn.au/forums/viewtopic.php?t=244&accom_id=244&name=Eagle Waterhole Camp Site
http://www.heysentrail.asn.au/forums/viewtopic.php?t=242&accom_id=242&name=Tapanappa Camp Site

[Jdog]

Michael, just completed this exact trip based on your blog so thank you for all the information to help with our planning. First day was blowing a gale so our thoughts were what were we thinking. Quite hairy at times walking along a cliff face with a wind blowing. Got to Eagles waterhole. Second day pretty tough going through deep creek, raining of and on but scenery is worth it. Dropped our tent over a cliff so had to retrieve that or would have been sleeping in the open. Made Tunkilla. Pictures don't do justice to the hill you have to climb the next day and even worse when muddy and slippery. Long day and made it to Parsons late. Early next day through Waitpinga, easier going as you said and the first view of the Bluff was welcoming. More great views going in and I think we may have got chips at the same chip shop. Thanks again.

[photohiker]

Hey Jdog,

You're welcome, glad my report was helpful. Those chips sure were tasty!

Did you camp above the beach at Tunkalilla? I haven't heard if the Friends have established a campsite there yet...

I dare not ask how you dropped your tent off a cliff.

[clelander]

Yes I should also thank you photohiker, I walked this section (only to Waits though, have already done Waits-Victor) in April. This report was extremely useful, especially your precise distances. I also confess I couldn't locate the Tunk campsite.

Aimed to recreate your pace but ended up taking things a bit slower, especially when I found a large school of salmon off Callawonga Beach!
I would encourage fishing hikers to pack a rod and a few lures. Certainly enjoyed supplementing my grub with some fresh fish.

Also, there is now a water tank at Balquidder, extremely handy especially since I walked at a time when it was still very dry.
Weather was fantastic and I only saw two people the entire time outside of the conservation parks and Waits/Parsons. Strange as the school holidays were on and the trail had just opened for the season. Worst blisters I've ever had didn't ruin the experience, but the evil boots were immediately replaced and put in a Salvo's bin upon return to Adelaide haha.

[clelander]

Tunkalilla Beach karsts

[photohiker]

Cool, glad to have been some help. The tide in that shot is a lot lower than anything I saw while I was there.

I've never tried fishing on a hike, must put that on my to-do list. How did you cook it?

[clelander]

On my father's advice "you never know you might get onto some fish" I was was optimistic enough to take some aluminium foil along with me!
Unfolded it and just managed to fit one fish inside, so one by one baked my fresh fish in their own juices. Delicious.

[eggs]

Its a year on from the first report for this thread. Very useful info - so thanks.

I was hoping to get in a spring walk this year, and it was suggested we do some of the Heysen Trail from Cape Jervis. I had been in Deep Creek Conservation Park before, but not on any other parts of the Heysen Trail at the bottom of Fleurieu Peninsula.
As usual, plans were made, then changed, then revamped on the run.
Initially it was a 3 day self contained walk to a variable pickup site. Then we found we had to take 2 cars and in thinking about security, we decided to allow for a car shuffle each night. This allowed for day packs only, but limited our choice of campsites. And then, after a warm and long first day, the plan was changed to include a loop inside Deep Creek CP.
So it was luxury accommodation on the Wednesday night with a lift provided to the trail head next to the Ferry terminal at 7:30 am. Then in lovely sunshine we were off. We made good pace to Blowhole Creek, despite my ankles being tested by walking along the side of some very steep slopes and feet being tested by new boots I was breaking in. Some of the coves were delightful as the water was relatively calm and a beautiful blue. The steep hills behind were glorious in a verdant green. Noticed quite a few dolphins well off shore on this section.
Then in growing heat we did the long climb to Cobbler Hill campground for lunch on some nice grass. My feet needed some taping and I noted some tendency to cramp in the legs. A couple of wedge tail eagles were gliding up the thermals right next to us on this climb.
After a pleasant lunch break it was off to Eagle Waterhole. I was suffering a bit more by now, but we had to press on as the car with our gear was near the Trig campground. This section of track is deep in the scrub and seemed to go for ever. But 4.5km later we staggered up the hill to the waiting car.
By my reckoning we had covered 19.3 km [although your figures suggest I should show 21 km?] with 750m of climbing in 7:50 hrs of actual walking. But I was too worn and very foot sore by this effort to think of doing the same again next day. So in rethinking our options, and being aware of a nasty change in the weather due that night, we opted to go back to the cottage at Cape Jervis for the night.

The steep hills we skirt around well above the shore line

A lovely beach near the flying saucer [Edit - Naiko Inlet]

Blowhole Beach was serene in bright sunshine. Kangaroo Island forms the backdrop across the Strait

[eggs]

Next day we placed the cars at the Trig area to restart, but did the loop down through Deep Creek Cove to Tapanappa Lookout for lunch, with the return to the Trig via the Deep Creek Waterfall track [which is the Heysen Trail through the park]. The walk began in cold driving rain, but it soon cleared up and became a nice, though windy day for the rest of the walk.

The first part of the track to the Cove has been burnt and is recovering. The very large yackas in flower were prominent here. The cove itself is a gem, but you have to cross the creek here. We observed a few crossing at the edge of the lagoon where rocks have been placed, but it looked risky due the high waves that would wash well over them. I had been across previously, but via the stepping stones where the creek enters the lagoon and then via a scamble over a rock wall. After one of our party got quite wet trying to cross, I headed back towards the other end. However, a family had been also observing and tested out the lagoon itself – which was mostly ankle deep with a small channel still below knee level to cross. So that is how we also got across – much easier and safer.

The exit from the cove was a short but very steep climb in strong winds. Then down and up a long climb to Tapanappa for lunch with a bunch of relaxing kangaroos. Great views to Tunkalilla Beach.

The return trip via the waterfall was on a good track and the falls had a good flow. A much better paced day out - 11.5 km with 520m climb in a walking time of 4:25 hrs. Getting a campsite for the night was a little problematic – as the wind was very strong and there were lots of people now as the long weekend was starting. However, we ended up at Tapanappa Campsite where we had a nice setup.

Recovering yackas in flower above the Deep Creek gorge

View of the Deep Creek lagoon from the steep climb out

Deep Creek Falls

[eggs]

The final day saw us travel to the Heysen Trail junction at Tunk Head Road walking back along Tunkalilla Beach to the other car at Tapanappa. We descended the very steep section in driving rain and also had a few showers when traversing the 4km along the beach. A very windy day with waves crashing in and the tide very high. We tried to stay on wetter sand to prevent sinking in, but that was not always a good indicator. Some wet sand was extremely soft and a few waves sneaked past our peripheral vision to get some legs wet. The high tide meant we had to negotiate a boulder section and some waves came right up to the top edge of the beach. However, it was a magnificent beach to be on.

Curiously – the maps and notes show a new campsite back in the hills from Tunkalilla Beach – but we saw no indications of its existence or signs of a junction to it from the beach.

Lunch was had at the far end before we took to sidling the bluffs to Boat Harbour Beach. The new diversion from Boat Harbour Beach adds a lot of distance to the track, but was a pleasant walk gradually benching up around the scrubby hillsides before arriving back at Tapanappa. Another nicely paced day at 13 km with 360m climb and 5 hrs walking.

That leave the 2 sections to Waitpinga and Victor Harbor for another trip.

Rolling hills and ocean views at the start of the walk down towards Tunkalilla Beach

Tunkalilla Beach with its dramatic beach edge. You may need to share the walk with some cows..

We dropped in on Balqhidder to check out the site - this is a wide angle showing the road the Heysen Trail follows here and on the RHS the campsite with some folk tenting it.

[jez_au]

3986SaucerCove.jpg

Hey eggs, great photos and story!Any chance we can use your photo of 'Saucer Cove' as the cover image on the Friends of the Heysen Trail Facebook page? We're running a competition using hikers' photos. This one would look great!https://www.facebook.com/HeysenTrail (you can still view the page without a Facebook login). We would acknowledge you by name and include a link to a blog, website or anything similar. If you are keen send me a message, cheers.

[photohiker]

Nice report eggs!

Wow, the Deep Creek Lagoon is nothing like when I crossed it, it was just a stream with a sandy bank at each side. You could get your feet wet, but you had to try!

Very strong colours in these photos compared to my trip a year ago!

[eggs]

jez_au
Sure - no problem to use the photo.
I presume you are aware of some other photo trip reports I have further along the Heysen Trail?
See Black Jack to Mt Bryan [http://bushwalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=5013&hilit=bryan]
and Horrocks Pass to Pichie Richie [http://bushwalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2501&hilit=mt+brown]
and the Heysen Trail over the Bluff [http://bushwalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=9771].

I noted your use of campsite photos - and was curious about where exactly Balquhidder was.

Thanks photohiker
I think the lagoon had sea water in it - as the waves were broaching well over the exit rocks at times. But it was in fact mostly quite shallow.

The countryside was very green still, and the sunshine on the still beaches and rocks was brilliant.
However I find green colours are enhanced when you get sun on a wet landscape from recent rain. [days 2 & 3]
Having said that - there have been discussions about digital photography - is it real life or a form of art?
Given the number of new on-camera adjustments and the rise of HDR, etc the photos coming straight off the camera can vary a lot.
But before posting I tend to run an auto adjustment using Microsoft Office Picture Manager - or the free IRFANVIEW and then often increase the contrast a little.
That tends to bring out the colour a bit more.

[jez_au]

jez_au
Sure - no problem to use the photo.
I presume you are aware of some other photo trip reports I have further along the Heysen Trail?
See Black Jack to Mt Bryan [http://bushwalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=5013&hilit=bryan]
and Horrocks Pass to Pichie Richie [http://bushwalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2501&hilit=mt+brown]
and the Heysen Trail over the Bluff [http://bushwalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=9771].

Cool thanks! Yes I'm a regular on here so have seen your posts before, and I'm pretty sure we've posted to each other before... however, I forget your actual name... if you want that included can you let me know (post or private msg). Your photos are great, both you are photohiker take some great photos!

I noted your use of campsite photos - and was curious about where exactly Balquhidder was.

Yes the campsite cant be easily seen from the road. There is more info on this page http://www.heysentrail.asn.au/?ac=582, "by creek next to Mount Scrub Road. Water tank and shelter across from the junction of two creeks (GR 641 554), 125m north of the stile (GR 642 554) on Mount Scrub Road."

[photohiker]

Yes, the campsite is actually a fair way from the sign and fence stile, it's on the other side of the creek. Not obvious from the road at all.

[eggs]

Yes - thats why I put in that last photo of Balquhidder.
Its bigger if you click on it - but it shows both the road and the campsite [with 3 orange tents] in relation to each other.

[jez_au]

Yes - thats why I put in that last photo of Balquhidder.
Its bigger if you click on it - but it shows both the road and the campsite [with 3 orange tents] in relation to each other.

Oh yes. Of course. Do you mind if we put that photo on the Heysen Trail page for that campsite? Cos you're right, it's a good way to demonstrate. http://www.heysentrail.asn.au/?ac=582

[eggs]

That's what I thought you might do

[jez_au]

That's what I thought you might do

Yes my bad for not realising. Updated now on our website, thanks for that. http://www.heysentrail.asn.au/?ac=582