Queensland Great walks are not so great

[Sting]

The Great Walks which the State Government of Queensland are trying to promote are only mediocre walks at the best. Our friends over in New Zealand have perfected the art of creating a great walk and one wonders if The Department of Environment and Resource Management (DERM) have ever travelled to New Zealand to see how these walks operate.

Definition of a Great Walk

A true wilderness experience
Does not follow a road or fire trail
Allows walkers to book multiple nights in the same hut or camp site
Bookings can be made over the internet
Allows walkers to traverse clockwise or anti-clockwise
Transportation available at both ends of the trail
Takes in the best of the natural features in an area
A walk one will keep coming back to.

All of New Zealand’s great walks fit the above definition with the exception of the Milford Track which because of its popularity can only be traversed in one direction and only a stay of one night is allowed in the huts. Other walks in NZ which do not come under the Great Walk umbrella still leave Queensland’s Great Walks for dead eg Dart Rees, Greenstone Caples, Wilkin Young, Traverse Sabine.

The following outlines where DERM has failed miserably in designing the so called Great Walks in Queensland by not following the above definitions of a Great Walk.

The Gold Coast Hinterland Great walk.

Much to recent promotional footage this walk does not traverse through The Natural Arch but traverses next to a prison farm and follows a main road for 8 km. There is also no provision to book all the camp sites on one web page.

The Sunshine Coast Hinterland

This walk utilises a number of roads to connect wilderness areas and does not take in the full potential of Obi Obi creek.

Conondale Range Great Walk

The walk did not take in the full potential of following Booloumba Creek. Instead DERM constructed a 10km section which only went near the creek once, with the rest of this section being constructed through cleared lantana, and missing vital waterfalls. Other areas of the walk follow old logging trails which are great for vehicles but not so good from a walkers perspective.

Carnarvon Great Walk

DERM had the opportunity to get this walk right, but they failed miserably. After leaving Big Bend and Battleship spur the walk was ordinary at the best. At the western end of the walk a connection should have been made with the upper reaches of Carnarvon Creek and then followed the gorge all the way back to the information centre. Or alternately utilise more of Carnarvon Creek with then a connection over to the Mount Mofat area.

Cooloola Great Walk

Apart from the beginning and the end, this is a walk I will never do again. DERM should have connected in with the Cooloola Wilderness trail and utilised more of the upper reaches of the Noosa River. Also the campsites are poorly designed with the idea that people want to camp 200 metres from their friends, and the raised platforms are not next to the tent sites.

I presume the other new “Great Walks” in Queensland have similar issues except for Fraser Island and Hinchinbrook which are truly great walks.

One has to ask did DERM ever consult with the bushwalking clubs of Queensland when designing these walks; they certainly did not contact the clubs I am in.

[ULWalkingPhil]

I found the opposite, I thought they are great walks particularly on the Fraser island and Cooloola Great Walk, both excellent, and had no problems with booking campsites online and was able to book all campsites at Fraser Island on the same webpage. I'm not aware of any rules you have to traverse the tracks in one direction. I know hikers that have walked the Great Walk at Fraser Island in the opposite direction, me included.

I been hiking of late in NSW and found that it was a nightmare to book campsites. No online booking. Had to book by phone and phone was only manned a few hours Monday to Friday. Campsites where a disgrace to what I'm use to here in QLD. I personally think the campsites here are excellent. I've never been to New Zealand however so I can't compare.

Scenery is awesome here and the walks are well laid out. You can always go off track if you wish in most Parks. I have to agree with you on the Gold Coast hinterland Great Walk and parts of the Sunshine Coast Hinterland.

[cams]

Yeah, I'd pretty much agree with the OP about the Gold Coast and Conondale ones. Booking for the Gold Coast one can't really be helped because of the Privately owned Binna Burra. Unless they built another campsite off in the national park somewhere nearby. But, the use of fire and maintenance trails so much does annoy me a bit.

[melot]

Speaking of transport & parking at the Great Walks trackheads, I'm doing Cooloola Great Walk soon walking north from the Tewantin end, where I'd planned to leave a car... but have just read there is no overnight or extended parking at the trackhead. So I'd thought to leave the car in Tewantin & catch a taxi, but read there is no taxi service to the North Shore. My ageing body will find the 17.3 kms to the first campsite quite long enough without an extra walk from the ferry to the walks start. Can anyone help me with suggestions as to where I can park the car safely and avoid an extra walk before the "real" hiking starts? (We'll be picking up the car 5 days later)

[Ticklebelly]

Speaking of transport & parking at the Great Walks trackheads, I'm doing Cooloola Great Walk soon ...............

Me too. And having the same issues with getting to and from start and finish. This will be my first great walk and will not be able to make much of a comment on the thread title until I have done it. That said, would be nice if the organisers of the walks though a bit about people wanting to do the walks and they could offer a little info on the practical aspects of getting there and home again e.g. bus service availability or trains or taxis or where to park for a few days.

Ticklebelly

[cams]

One idea might be to park on the Noosa side of the ferry and hitch a ride with one of the gazillion 4wd's heading for the beach (if it's a weekend day)? Maybe just offer to pay their ferry fee or something. Or even better just bring a 6 pack of VB and wave that in the air. I'm sure you'd get a bite or two in no time.

[ULWalkingPhil]

I am trying to organize this walk as well for a solo hike. So far the best I can think off is take the Tilt Train Service to Nambour than take the buss service into noosa from Nambour. Hopefully the bus can drop me off somewhere close to the ferry service, and hitch a ride to the start of the walk. Than get my brother to pick me up at Rainbow Beach.

[dannnnn]

public transport can get you within about 1-2km of the noosa ferry. you could pay a taxi to take you the rest of the way to the trailhead - it is a 2wd road. the taxi driver might want money for the return ferry trip tho!

unfortunately it is not a very populated area so it is unreasonable to expect great public transport access.

use the journey planner on http://www.translink.com.au and search for Moorindal Street in Tewantin.

your other option would be to ring a tour company and see if they could drop you off on their way past?

someone like http://www.sunsetsafaris.com.au/ might be able to help.

[Lamingtonman]

The Great Walks which the State Government of Queensland are trying to promote are only mediocre walks at the best. Our friends over in New Zealand have perfected the art of creating a great walk and one wonders if The Department of Environment and Resource Management (DERM) have ever travelled to New Zealand to see how these walks operate.

Definition of a Great Walk

A true wilderness experience
Does not follow a road or fire trail
Allows walkers to book multiple nights in the same hut or camp site
Bookings can be made over the internet
Allows walkers to traverse clockwise or anti-clockwise
Transportation available at both ends of the trail
Takes in the best of the natural features in an area
A walk one will keep coming back to.

All of New Zealand’s great walks fit the above definition with the exception of the Milford Track which because of its popularity can only be traversed in one direction and only a stay of one night is allowed in the huts. Other walks in NZ which do not come under the Great Walk umbrella still leave Queensland’s Great Walks for dead eg Dart Rees, Greenstone Caples, Wilkin Young, Traverse Sabine.

The following outlines where DERM has failed miserably in designing the so called Great Walks in Queensland by not following the above definitions of a Great Walk.

The Gold Coast Hinterland Great walk.

Much to recent promotional footage this walk does not traverse through The Natural Arch but traverses next to a prison farm and follows a main road for 8 km. There is also no provision to book all the camp sites on one web page.

The Sunshine Coast Hinterland

This walk utilises a number of roads to connect wilderness areas and does not take in the full potential of Obi Obi creek.

Conondale Range Great Walk

The walk did not take in the full potential of following Booloumba Creek. Instead DERM constructed a 10km section which only went near the creek once, with the rest of this section being constructed through cleared lantana, and missing vital waterfalls. Other areas of the walk follow old logging trails which are great for vehicles but not so good from a walkers perspective.

Carnarvon Great Walk

DERM had the opportunity to get this walk right, but they failed miserably. After leaving Big Bend and Battleship spur the walk was ordinary at the best. At the western end of the walk a connection should have been made with the upper reaches of Carnarvon Creek and then followed the gorge all the way back to the information centre. Or alternately utilise more of Carnarvon Creek with then a connection over to the Mount Mofat area.

Cooloola Great Walk

Apart from the beginning and the end, this is a walk I will never do again. DERM should have connected in with the Cooloola Wilderness trail and utilised more of the upper reaches of the Noosa River. Also the campsites are poorly designed with the idea that people want to camp 200 metres from their friends, and the raised platforms are not next to the tent sites.

I presume the other new “Great Walks” in Queensland have similar issues except for Fraser Island and Hinchinbrook which are truly great walks.

One has to ask did DERM ever consult with the bushwalking clubs of Queensland when designing these walks; they certainly did not contact the clubs I am in.

Hi Sting.......You do have some very valid points here but I would just like to add a couple of things, I have tramped in NZ and I have walked the Lamington quite extensively. The idea of a great walk in QLD compared to NZ is in it's infancy, the reason why the walk passes the prison farm is due to the privately owned farm that borders the prison farm and also runs horse rides in that area, this can not be helped, I know that if I took tourists on excursions on my private land I wouldn't want to have the government profitting from land that I owned not to mention the people wandering through it, the farm also is a cattle producer, all of the land along the Numinbah valley and up the escarpment is privately owned. Don't forget natural Arch is along way along that road from where the track crosses.

New Zealand has been developing their great walks for years which is why they have top class facilities something which (hopefully) we'll see in the future. NZ is also one of the premium walking locations globally which is also something that QLD isn't noted for, for example Kirra Point is known globally for it's surfing just like Milford is reknowned for tramping.

I'm sure as the numbers of walkers increase so too will the facilities.

Lamingtonman.

[melot]

Re access to & parking at Cooloola Great Walk trackhead ... I am now returned from our Cooloola tramp and can report that we had NO trouble leaving our car on the North Shore side, about 50m from the trackhead there. While there are "no standing" signs right at the trackhead there is very visible parking, presumably for visitors & guests of the North Shore Resort but with no signage to indicate it was private parking. We thought it was preferable to the carpark back at the Parks & Wildlife office on the Tewantin side of the ferry as it was not well lit or visible from the road & so looked more prone to vehicle break-in.
Because we were unable to organise lifts or public transport to the Rainbow Beach end within our time constraints, we simply walked north for 2 days, took a rest day and then walked back south to our car. We had 5 fabulous days... really enjoyed the variety of country we passed through, including masses of wild flowers and views better than expected. Brahminy campsite was awesome at sunrise & sunset. Southbound walkers told us it was the best of the campsites. We didn't camp at the next Great Walk campsite (Dutgee), choosing to shorten our second day walk & stay at one of the Noosa R. campsites instead. We'd booked the river campsite for two nights and were so glad we did (not just because we'd found the first 2 days quite long, at least within the shorter winter daylight hours which had meant we couldn't dawdle along at our usual turtle pace)... we didn't see another walker after we left Brahminy on the second morning and just loved the reflections and birdsong along the river.
Reading the guide to Cooloola Great walk we'd thought this southern section would be the part we'd most enjoy and it did not disappoint. I would be happy to do it again, particularly during wildflower season, but would maybe camp the night before the walk at the Noosa Nth Shore beach Camping Ground (run by the Sunshine Coast Shire Council as that would cut out nearly 5km of less interesting walking at the start and be less crowded and commercial than the Caravan park in Tewantin near the ferry that we stayed at this time.

[cams]

That's good to hear melot. That campsite next to the river is nice. Anything along the upper reaches of the Noosa river is nice. So good for swimming in summer. I did a 5 or 6 day canoe trip up from Harry's Hut quite a few years ago.

[Ticklebelly]

My Cooloola walk is now set for 13 Aug. Organisation is being handled by a person who lives at Gympie and has done the walk before. They will organise how we get to and from the trail start and finish and for now I'm leaving it in their hands. I'll let people know how we go.

I'll also be able to make a meaningful comment on the content of the original post at that time too.

Ticklebelly

[ULWalkingPhil]

I'm set on the Conondale Great Walk on the 17th August.

I'm very keen on finding out what you think of the Cooloola Walk Ticklebelly. Let us know what you think, I'll do the same after I complete the Conondale Walk. I have walked that section near the creek, and yes I to only seen or came upon the creek once on that 10km section, which is a bit strange, otherwise I did enjoy the walk. As far as I know, the Sunshine Coast Bushwalking club helped out with this Walk.

[sjf]

Interesting post. Part of me agrees with the opinion you have put forward that the Great Walks are not so great, the other part of me thinks that they are absolutely fantastic.

I dislike the logistics exercise of getting to and getting away from the walks that are not a circuit ... But that does also add an element of organizational challenge that once you have it sorted is quite satisfying ...

The walks themselves are all interesting, they have good, bad and brilliant parts ... Every walk is like this ... To me it isn't always about the destinations, it really is about the journey and also the company you have, friends you make on these walks... Phillisophical hey !

The key point is that we have these walks, they are established, maintained and in the most part pretty good to do ... I think there is a need now for private enterprise to pick up on the shortfalls such as getting there and away, guided walks and suggested improvements ...

Thoughts ?

[Morgane]

My Cooloola walk is now set for 13 Aug. Organisation is being handled by a person who lives at Gympie and has done the walk before. They will organise how we get to and from the trail start and finish and for now I'm leaving it in their hands. I'll let people know how we go.

I'll also be able to make a meaningful comment on the content of the original post at that time too.

Ticklebelly

Hello,
We (3 french students) would like to do this walk from the 3rd of august to the 8th of August (flexible date ...). We are based in Brisbane now. We have a car. We wanted to know if it's possible to have your contact in Gympie to have a lift ( it will be paid of course...) from one entrance to the other one.
Thanks

[under10kg]

The Gold Coast Hinterland Great walk.

Much to recent promotional footage this walk does not traverse through The Natural Arch but traverses next to a prison farm and follows a main road for 8 km. There is also no provision to book all the camp sites on one web page.

Have to agree with you.
I talked to a ranger about this and he said private land made the choose of the route less than the potential.
Pity.

Maurice

[ULWalkingPhil]

In regards to the Conondale range great walk, I've found secure parking at the Bellbird creek Tea House, 4km south of Kenilworth. The proprietors will drop you of to the start of walk and pick you up when finished, I'll be trying this service out next week.

[hunterclarke]

We (2 families) are planning the Conondale great walk and after info from anyone who has taken kids on this walk. Age range 8-14years old-all fit & active.

[ULWalkingPhil]

You might have to help the 8 yo to get up the steep climb on the first day once you cross the Artists Cascade. It's a steep climb with some huge steps. Once passed that, it's a cruisy ride the rest of the way, so to speak. Watch out for the leeches and in particular the ticks.

Watch your footing crossing the artists cascades. Lots of fast flowing water last week when I crossed it. I believe they have had more rain in that area in the past few days.

And if you get the chance, see if you can find out what the big secret is hidden in a camo tent on the trail just before you get to the cascades on day one. The locals are scratching there head on this one. They told me all week helicopters where dropping in big boulders in the area and some guy from Europe is there doing some art sculptor that's cost the government a lot of money. It's all secret, when I went past last week the area was fenced off, but I could see a large camo army tent.

[Kac1912]

I did the Connondale Range Great Walk in July this year (2011) with my daughter. I would expect fit youg children, 8yo and above should handle it reasonably well providing they are interested in the hiking/camping experience.
At the Artists Cascade we took off our boots and waded across the creek. Rock hopping across the creek is possible but we decided not to chance wet boots so early in our walk.

Booloumba Falls and the Bread Knife is a great spot for an afternoon snack before tackling the last section into Wongai Walkers camp which took us about 35min.

At Wongai Walkers camp the camp sites are spread out. About 25m to 35m between platforms. There was plenty of clean clear water in the tank. Note, the tap was broken and we had to use the tank stop *&%$#! to turn the water on and off. The stop *&%$#! was a little hard to turn but it did function.

Day two is the longest of the four days. This 17km section became 21km for us. This section of track consists of moderate climbs and then enters a fire trail where the Great Walk is well sign-posted. Most of the Great Walk on day two consists of walking on fire trails. These fire trails do get a bit boring and it is welcomed respite to get back onto the bush tracks.

Whilst the junctions where small tracks join or cross fire management trails are obvious the junctions where you are required to leave a fire trail and enter a small track are less obvious. Yes, we missed a turn and added about another 4km to our walk. So pay close attention, at the T junction of fire trails where a ‘Great walk’ sign indicates it is 3.9km to Tallowood Walkers camp it is only another 200m (supposedly) to the next ‘Great Walk’ sign on the right hand side of the trail indicating 3.7km to Tallowood Walkers Camp. You must turn right here on to a track departing the fire management trail. We missed this turn and continued along the fire management trail to a gate and Sunday Creek road. At this junction there is a sign stating you have just come along Peter’s Fire Management trail. There is also a sign indicating that Jimna is 14km to the left. If you get this point, stop, check your map, turn around and head back about 2km keeping a close look out for the ‘Great Walk’ sign post that will now be on your left. The sign post will indicate 3.7km to Tallowood Walkers camp.

The track will merge with another fire trail or old loggers trail however just over 3km in you will see a ‘Great Walk’ sign indicating that you turn left. It is another 500m to Tallowood according to the Great Walk sign.

At Tallowood I found five camp site platforms (there might have others, I didn’t look too hard). Note, this campsite is a set on a ridge and it gets windy so be careful where you set up camp under the trees. Water from the tank here was discoloured but still tasted OK, we still used water purifying tablets

Access to the start of the Great Walk is via the Booloumba Creek Road just south of Kenilworth. There is parking at the Booloumba Creek Day Use Area if you choose. You will require either a 4WD or a 2WD with good ground clearance to reach the start of the walk because there are three creek crossings to drive through. Vehicles with good clearance should cross the creeks easily providing no recent heavy rainfalls swell the creek.

If you decide not to take your vehicle across the creeks there is no designated parking area provided to leave your vehicle at the first creek crossing. The best you can achieve is to park along the edge of the gravel road. The road is narrow and very little shoulder to park on.

Alternatively you can contact Pete Cusack who owns and operates the Bellbird Creek Teahouse which is located 4km south of Kenilworth and approx 5km north of the Booloumba Creek Road turn off.

Contact details are phone 07 5446 0211, www.bellbirdcreek.com, email: info@bellbirdcreek.com and Pete’s mobile is 0417 756 876

Pete has kindly offered walkers a complimentary service whereby he will drop you at either the first creek crossing or at the start of the Great Walk (if you have a 4WD) and then take your vehicle back to his residence at the Tea House. There is a public phone at the Bouloumba Creek camping ground that you can call him from to pick you up upon your return. THANK YOU PETE – GREATLY APPRECIATED.
The first creek crossing is approx 4km from the Maleny – Kenilworth road turnoff (approx 5min drive time). There is about 450m between the first and second crossings. Then approx 700m between the second and third crossings. Allow approx twenty (20) minutes walk across the three creek crossings.

[Don R]

Good evening all, a contentious statement possibly but no one I would disagree with.The Carnarvon great walk in particular is accurately described. twenty years plus ago I did most of the walk and found it to be pleasant but decidedly not great. Last year I did the whole walk, fortunately we had rain during the middle section which made it atmospheric and attractive. The large mahogany forest was good, but the track only tangentially ouches it. The impressive Mt Moffatt section is not visited at all really. The landscape makes for pleasant walking but nothing great. The views are minimal after Battleship Spur. Having done the other great walks before they became "great" I can vouch that they are generally pleasant but not especially well thought out. Mostly they are walks where pre existing routes, tracks, four wheel drive tracks (esp in Carnarvon) are strung together to make a long walk. Wilderness values aren't the greatest and the areas such as Main Range which could be the site of a "great walk" have been mercifully spared the degradation inflicted on places like Hinchinbrook Island.

[jj57272]

Accidentally I found this subject. It may be interesting for you to share my view (a foreigner who travelled and bushwalked all around Australia).

In my eyes there are only two Queensland Great Walks which I would call great: The Fraser Island Great Walk and from the Wet Tropics Great Walk the part from Blencoe Falls through the Herbert River Gorge. The others are would quote as follows:
- Gold Coast Hinterland: 0 of 5 stars. In my eyes quite needless. This great walk has no interesting new natural attractions to offer and give you a transport problem. I would all visitors recommend to do the many beautiful day walks in Lamington and Springbrook instead. For all these who looking for something more - try Lamington behind the maintained track sytem.
- Sunshine Coast Hinterland: 3 of 5. The Blackall Range isn't an area for a great walk - the region is to much developed (settlements, roads,...), no wilderness feeling. Don't get my wrong, there is some nice scenery but no place for an great walk anymore. And again a transport problem...
- Conondale Range: 3 of 5. In some parts of this walk you will get the feeling to be away from all but the lack of highlights will leave you otherwise often bored. Advantage: it's a circuit walk.
- Cooloola: 3,5 of 5. Similar scenery as Fraser Island. But Fraser is the more scenic option. Again a transport problem. And let me dream: banned the 4wd's from the beaches and leave the double island point for bushwalker only...
- Carnarvon: 2 of 5. Great scenery through Carnarvon Gorge and up to Battleship Spur. The remainder is boring and disappointing. Just think what potential this national park has...
- Mackay Highlands 2,5 of 5. Also this walk dosen't use the potential of the area and will leave bushwalkers not satisfied behind and give them a transport problem...
- Whitsunday: 3 of 5. Nothing I would call bad but a Great Walk? Again a transport problem...

I think Queensland doesn't need Great Walks. Foreign visitors who are interested in bushwalking will mostly happy about the short tracks offered in many national parks. And if Queensland really want to compete with bushwalking destinations as New Zealand the Great Walks must be of high quality - varied and magnificent scenery, people should have a wilderness feeling and transport back shouldn't give you any problems. And than it would be a better idea to make a nationwide great walk program, say 15-20 Great Walks around Australia. That could be a few new and already existing ones (Great Overland Track, Great Larapinta Trail,...). The aim must be that people who walk these tracks say afterwards things like: "That will be last for life in my memory." or "It's so beautiful, I have to come back." I think most of the Queensland Great Walks don't meet this criteria. An other question would be: Should Australia open some of its wilderness areas for a wider public? Better not. Australia can be glad to have some wilderness left.

Conclusion: Queensland Great Walks leave bushwalker with mixed feelings. The most of them aren't good enough to come back or to recommend to others. It would have been better with the money what was actually spend to create 3-4 really exciting great walks only or to use it to acquire new land for new or existing national parks. JJ

[tallevalley28]

i agree that the gold coast great walk is not great at all but if anyone is interested in a short detour from the trackand a reasonably challenging rock climb then egg rock is fun.