High Plains traverse - 5 nights

[davids]

Hi all
Finish work Wed afternoon, then heading off on Thursday morning after a night in Omeo.
Plan is Hotham to Fed Hut site. (39 degrees forecast!)
Diamantina spur, Westons hut site to Tawonga huts
Across high plains to Rover Lodge - for a bit of 'luxury' and replenish supplies
To Ropers hut
Cleve Cole
Last day over Bogong and down staircase

Not too long each day, so plenty of opportunity for a sidetrip each day - Feathertop, Jaithmathang, Cope, Nelse and a few huts
My only question is about water on the razorback. Van der Knijff's book says 'a reliable spring few hundred m to right of track near old feathertop hut site'. Haven't been there before, so is that right - south side of track? I also understand there is a reliable source on way to MUMC.
Thanks for advice on this, or other thoughts
Cheers
David

[ryantmalone]

Did this walk a few years ago in reverse, you're going to have a blast. Its one of my favourites.

As for water on the razorback...

There is currently NO water at Federation Hut, so... you have two choices.

The first is to walk towards Mt Feathertop, and just before the climb starts, turn left at the Tom Kneen Track towards MUMC Hut. Under a kilometer along the track, you will hit a muddy patch, and a spring. If you hit a hairpin and climb towards the top of a narrow spur, you've gone too far. This spring was flowing very strong only a few weeks ago.

The second option is to walk a 1.5k down Bungalow Spur to the old Federation Hut site, and turn left at the signpost to get to the spring. Only downside to this is that to get water, you lose 200 meters elevation, and have to slog back up it again.

I'd recommend my first option if you want the easier way, and some killer views too. Not just that, but it was flowing much stronger than the spring lower down.

If all else fails, there is pump water at MUMC Hut from the old mystery hut creek, but that is down at the 1600 meter mark, and is a pretty steep climb back up to Fed.

As for the 39 degree weather... I did the Razorback a few weeks ago in the same forecast. You're up higher, so it will be a perfect day for it. Sun will bite like mad, but the wind will be nice and cool. No better conditions.

[Snowzone]

Hi David, Hothams forecast is a tad cooler than 39, although 22 across the razorback will be more than warm enough in full sun.

Thursday 17 JanuarySummary Min 10 Max 22 Sunny. Sunny. Winds westerly and light tending northwesterly 15 to 25 km/h during the morning then tending northerly 25 to 30 km/h during the

As Ryan said the spring on the way to the MUMC hut was flowing well 2 weeks ago.

[Kinsayder]

Across high plains to Rover Lodge - for a bit of 'luxury' and replenish supplies

Just picking up on this part here. Do you have access to the Rover Lodge? If you don't then the luxury will be contained to the little emergency shelter section, quite pokey, just so that you know. If you do, kudos, I hope you have a great trip!

[davids]

Thanks for your inputs.
I also rang Parks in Mt.Beauty and they confirmed that Fed hut water is dodgy at present, so Ryan, thanks, we'll take the MUMC hut track spring option.
There is a working bee weekend at the Rover Lodge, so yes, guaranteed luxury! always worth checking their website and asking as very cheap accom and always good company.
Unfortunately popped a disc out bending over chainsawing yesterday, but still have 48 hours to come good. A hike with a bad back is certainly better than no hike and painfree!
Cheers
David

[Kinsayder]

Careful with your back, David. That could really bite you a couple of days in.

[ryantmalone]

Thanks for your inputs.
I also rang Parks in Mt.Beauty and they confirmed that Fed hut water is dodgy at present, so Ryan, thanks, we'll take the MUMC hut track spring option.
There is a working bee weekend at the Rover Lodge, so yes, guaranteed luxury! always worth checking their website and asking as very cheap accom and always good company.
Unfortunately popped a disc out bending over chainsawing yesterday, but still have 48 hours to come good. A hike with a bad back is certainly better than no hike and painfree!
Cheers
David

The quality of the water at the spring is incredible too. If you climb up a meter or two, you can see the hole in the rock where the water literally pours out of the mountain. Its like drinking melted snow, truly welcome at the end of a long day.

As for your back, I have a few exercises that were recommended to me by my GP as a means of strengthening my back after an injury. If my back is even giving me the slightest bit of grief, I do these daily, and it helps alot. Might be worth chatting to a GP too, there'd be nothing worse than a bad back to ruin the walk!

[quicky]

Thanks for your inputs.
Unfortunately popped a disc out bending over chainsawing yesterday, but still have 48 hours to come good. A hike with a bad back is certainly better than no hike and painfree!
Cheers
David

I'm with Kinsayder...
I don't mean to pry, but I sort of do... I'm curious, have you ever prolapsed a disc before? I take it you've have had your recent trauma confirmed via X-Ray, SLR or Mckenzie Method with a Physio with some other highly sensitive test? Is there facet joint involvement (sprain) as well? What is the degree of your herniation?
The only reason why I ask is that if you have herniated a disc before, then you may already have a good understanding of your own recovery & rehab and what your capabilities are, knowing you've caused significant trauma only days earlier, and knowing exactly what you can and can't do. Even still, 48 hours aint much recovery even for a hard-core disc prolapser!!
If you haven't, then you're taking a significant risk...IMO...regardless of the severity of the prolapse...
A prolapse isn't just an end point...it's a sign to tell you that there may be weakness there in the first place...whether it be your lower back musculature, your abdominal core, or just a tiredness that tipped you over the edge due to an already inflamed lumbar (I'm assuming it's your lumbar L4/L5'ish)...or a combination of all of the above.
No doubt, during the course of your 5 night trip, there may be lots of twisting, spinal flexion...especially when loaded with a pack...a slight trip...a momentary lapse and forgetfulness....even the excessive use of stabiliser muscles and gluteus, which all kick in during compensation post spinal trauma....will ALL work against you when you least expect it....and then you're stuffed. What would happen if it flares up on the trail and you are then stuck with some impingement as well? Then you're truly f***ed. Why take that risk?
I understand that the general mainstay of treatment for spinal issues such as this is a combination of medication, massage, manipulation & 'movement'....but keep this in perspective. A hike with a bad back can lead to no hiking at all later on.
In all seriousness...be safe....and don't just say 'yeah yeah I'll be careful'. If you do go, make sure you do as you're told...or I'll tell your mumma!
I think you're nuts if you go....but I'll shut up now.

[paidal_chalne_vala]

23.1.12:out of control bush fires in this region means stay away . The roads are shut and some hikers are stuck on Mt Feathertop.

[Kinsayder]

23.1.12:out of control bush fires in this region means stay away . The roads are shut and some hikers are stuck on Mt Feathertop.

Apparently they are airlifting "15 people at a time" out of the area, I'd imagine (hope!) it would be well clear of people by now.

[davids]

Thanks all for your concern! Its a self diagnosis but had all the hallmarks of disc prolapse (worse with straining, no radiation of pain, mechanism of injury, past history etc), but yes, could just have been facet joint. The hyperextension exercises worked well, and the pack seemed to splint the injury quite well. In fact walking without a pack, or any forward bending was the painful thing. At my age (50+) joint pain is inevitable. If I gave up hiking for every ache or pain, I'd never do anything. Seeing a physio tomorrow as still not quite right.
More problematic on the walk was lack of fitness (old age?) and shortness of breath up from Big River - crikey - nearly killed me!
Quite a few snakes around.
Glorious sunset (with Licola fires smoke adding red hue) from top of Ftop a highlight. Centuries old snow gum for lunching within and on another highlight at the head of Watchbed creek. Many spring flowers still around on the highplain.
Water on the MUMC track was indeed lovely (thanks Ryan), as was the swim (or at least bathe) at bottom of Diamantina spur and Big R.
Many less people out and about than I thought there would be - I think hiking/walking is losing out to other pursuits as weather was indeed perfect.
David

[ryantmalone]

Good that you got out before the fires.

That climb up from Big River was a killer, that near ended me last time I was there.

[Drew]

Just out of interest davids, how did your transport for this walk work? A generous partner or friend to drop you off at Hotham and collect you from Mountain Creek?

I'd like to do this walk over Easter perhaps, but not sure how I could make it work, except maybe organising two groups and swapping car keys half way.

Also, do you reckon it would be a stretch to do it in 4 nights? Maybe something like this:

Hotham - Blair Hut (via Feathertop)
Blair Hut - Wallaces Hut
Wallaces Hut - Big River
Big River - Mountain Creek

Cheers,

Drew

[ryantmalone]

Also, do you reckon it would be a stretch to do it in 4 nights? Maybe something like this:

Hotham - Blair Hut (via Feathertop)
Blair Hut - Wallaces Hut
Wallaces Hut - Big River
Big River - Mountain Creek

Cheers,

Drew

That is very doable, I have done the same trip, in reverse, however as I got to the area using Vline, late start meant first camp at Bivouac Hut.

That said, very doable. Not much chance to sight see, but doable.

[davids]

Hi Drew
We used Falls Creek bus lines. $250 for the 5 of us - would havebeen same for 10 I guess as was a minibus and trailer. If only a few, a taxi would be another option. We were happt to pay for the convenience
I'm sure you could do the trip in 4 nights - even less if you are happy with long hard days. 5 nights was hard enough for us, and we liked long contemplative meal and restt stops, as well as early finishes. I personally find that 4-6 hours per day of actual walking enough for me. And for one of the group it was her first multiday hike
Also, we were able to do a sunset walk up Ftop, and had an early morning on Bogong.It was pretty hot and two hours in the water at bottom of Diamintina spur and in Big River were real highlights
David

[Kinsayder]

Well done, David! I imagine that your back didn't cause too much grief then.

[Drew]

Thanks for the replies, I'll definitely keep it in mind for Easter. Other options I'm thinking of are Wilderness Coast and Kosciuszco Main Range.

[Drew]

After much debate it looks like there's a reasonable chance a group of us will be doing this High Plains Traverse over Easter. Our current plan is to take 5 days. Drive to Mtn Creek and leave cars, get Mt Beauty Taxi Service to drive us to Mt Loch carpark. They've quoted $250 for up to 6 people. Seems worth paying to avoid a long car shuffle.

Mt Loch Carpark - Dibbins Hut
Dibbins Hut - Wallaces
Wallaces - Ropers
Ropers - Cleve Cole
Cleve Cole - Mountain Creek.

It's rained very little up there so far this month. If there's not substantial wet stuff before Easter I'm wondering if we might have any water issues anywhere along the way?

There's a possibility we might try to do it in 4 days to accommodate people who can't get the extra day off work. If we did we'd probably do it in reverse to avoid a massive last day over Bogong. Would this seem like too much for a reasonably fit bunch? Apart from the big climb over Bogong, the descent to Big River and the descent/climb to Dibbins it mostly pretty easy walking.

Thoughts appreciated.

Cheers,

Drew

[Hallu]

I was in the area yesterday : it was REALLY cold with that strong wind (I think it was about 2°C), so be prepared for subzero temperatures over Easter. It rained quite a bit on Saturday when I was doing the Razorback, so it should have rained on the High Plains too (the clouds were certainly going that way), this week could be wet too, but ask around first.

[ryantmalone]

That sounds like a great walk. Could always save on the taxi and walk up from Harrietville, and cross to the High Plains via Diamantina and Lake Spur. Would be more exciting too, and you'd get to summit Feathertop too. That depends on whether the track up Bungalow is open or not.

As for water, only a week ago, water was a total non issue up there. There was plenty in minor creeks that cross the track across Mt Bundara, and with this weeks rainfall, I reckon you will have little issues with water. Even if its that much of a problem, 20 minutes along the Cope Saddle Fire Trail towards Pretty Valley, and you'll find enough water to fill a few swimming pools!

[Drew]

Thanks, good to hear that there's been some rain and creeks flowing recently. According to BOM Falls Creek has had only 7mm all month, most of it at the start. Hotham's had just a few mm more. But there is some rain forecast this week so it should be fine.

I'll certainly be expecting some cold over the 5 days, but hopefully not everyday! And hopefully not with strong, bitter winds! Last Easter we had gorgeous warm weather climbing Helicopter Spur and then snow on the summit of Howitt the next day, so I'll be prepared.

Saving on the taxi sounds good but I like the idea of an easy first day (only 8km or so to Dibbins from Mt Loch carpark) after driving all the way up.

[ryantmalone]

Yeah, been very little rain up there, but the water just keeps on coming from somewhere.

On the Niggerheads, saw thick streams pouring out of the springs only mere meters from the ridge crest, which says something about the water supply up there at the moment.

[Drew]

After much debate it looks like there's a reasonable chance a group of us will be doing this High Plains Traverse over Easter. Our current plan is to take 5 days. Drive to Mtn Creek and leave cars, get Mt Beauty Taxi Service to drive us to Mt Loch carpark. They've quoted $250 for up to 6 people. Seems worth paying to avoid a long car shuffle.

Mt Loch Carpark - Dibbins Hut
Dibbins Hut - Wallaces
Wallaces - Ropers
Ropers - Cleve Cole
Cleve Cole - Mountain Creek.


Drew

Successfully completed and perfectly timed weather-wise. 85mm of rain at Hotham the day before we started meant there was plenty of water around to drink. Over 5 days we had mostly sunny skies. Just one night and morning of light rain.

A beautiful walk. Dibbins Hut is in a stunning little valley, especially on a frosty and sunny morning. They've just built a new toilet and tent platforms on the northern (?) side of the Cobungra River. We didn't see them until walking past the next day. We wouldn't have wanted to use the tent platforms as there's plenty of room next to the hut (which is a prettier spot) but we certainly would have crossed the bridge to use the toilet had we known it was there!

The walk from Cleve Cole to Bogong was stunning. Last time I did it in the afternoon. The morning light this time made it even more beautiful.

I think it would have been a bit too much to do in 4 days. Certainly possible but not much time for dawdling.

A few pics below...

[dplanet]

I would not cross the rocky river bed with barefoot.

[ryantmalone]

I would not cross the rocky river bed with barefoot.

haha I'd have to agree with you on that one. Done that crossing a few times with bare feet, and its a killer!

I carry a spare pair of KT26's tied to my pack for that very reason.

[Drew]

I've taken sandals the two times that I've done it but everyone else has been fine barefoot. The rocks aren't too slippery. The biggest problem is the painfully cold water!

[andrewbish]

Looks like it was a great trip, Drew. Nice one.

[madmacca]

OK, this prompts a question about best river crossing technique with a chain. Is it better to have the chain on the downstream side where it will block you if you fall, or on the upstream side where you hang on but can't get tangled in it?

[neilmny]

I would say on the downstream side so that if you slip and drop it you have a chance to pick it up again.
This is based on the thought that if you slip you are likely to slip downstream away from an upstream chain
which you would have to move upstream to get hold of again........ but on the other hand???????

[Drew]

I opted for the upstream side of the chain, but I didn't give it much thought! The river wasn't high enough to make me worry much. I did though find it useful to be able to lean on it a little bit as I crossed.

Last time I crossed it the river was much higher and stronger flowing and the chain had been washed away. That crossing was a fair bit trickier... We had one pair of poles between 6 of us and threw them across after each crossing. They help a lot.