Hubby and I returned last week from Chile , and it was an incredible experience. Over the next few weeks (months? lol) I'll sort and edit my photos and link something here to them
Here's a brief outline of the circuit
The walk ended up being much more difficult than I had anticipated, but that was mainly due to weather conditions.
We flew to Santiago and then directly to Punta Arenas all on the one day - 26 hours with no real sleep. Then bus the next day to Puerto Natales, which has some great eateries. We met up with our guide, Chino, and the next mornig had our stored luggage sorted and hiking packs organised for the start of of our walk, and drove into the Torres del Paine national park itself.
Day 1 of the circuit walk
We had a fine (ish) start for our first day walking up to the Torres themselves, after leaving our main packs in Refrugio las Torres lockers. We stopped for a hot drink and a snack at Refugio El Chileno, but it was snowing at Campamento Torres, and pretty cold, and only got about a 30 sec break in the clouds for some pics of the spires themselves. The W section of the walk (southern area) has a lot of hikers, from all over the world. You can tell the French and the Germans - they all seem to be beautifully dressed! I met a cool US artist/photographer who is spending several months in Chile. He's a brave man - minimalistic camping under a GoLite tarp, no poles, wears sneakers, and his camera gear takes up more than half of the weight he's carrying. We kept bumping into him on our travels. Website abegoodale.com
Day 2
Next day walking to Seron was really really windy, but fine. I managed to get a pole stuck in a creek crossing rock hopping, fell akwardly, and ended up in the icy water up to my waist, which was not fun I can tell you, and hurt my knee and got pretty bruised and wrenched. I was pretty cold walking in the wind wet, but once I dried off I was OK. Good thng for prescription strength codeine and paracetamol tablets. A hot shower at the end would have been bliss, but it was camping, and only a cold shower, and by the time we got to camp it was drizzly and very cold. This was the start of 5 days of completely sodden feet, non-stop lol. We had a Chilean Christmas Eve party al fresco with a group of 5 English walkers, a mum and daughter from Perth and all their guides and porters. So much meat!! Seron is an old sheepherders hut, and they get their wood and supplies delivered by packhorse.
Day 3
Next day was our walk to Dickson refugio, which was my favourite place. Atmosphere a bit like an old style ski lodge. There is an incredible swamp you have to go through - a boardwalk was started in 2009 but never finished. It starts off 4 boards wide, dwindles down to 3, then 2 just laid on top of the mud, then 1, then it's as if someone just stood there and randomly threw logs and sticks about. The mud was pole handle deep in some section just next to the 'track' - I really did not want to repeat my stunt of falling like yesterday! It rained non stop all day, and the place was full of rowdy campers of all nationalities, and the floor in front of the fire was a mass of muddy boots. Gato red wine in a box was very welcome, rough as it was! Rain was incredible, and the lodge ran out of wood that night. The roads would be too muddy to get some for a few days. The final delivery to Dickson is across a lake by boat. The staff were concerned they were going to run out of food as so many people were delaying moving on to the next camp due to the weather. There were also people arriving from the other direction who had been unable to cross the pass, who had also run out of food and were forced to turn back. Christmas Day was spent here - I had my little fairy lights laid out on the table, and I had brought mini packets of Vegemite for people to try. I had a marzipan bar in my pack that I gave to a very homesick German guy.
Day 4
We delayed leaving Dickson for as long as possible (horizontal rain) and because the next camp, Campamento los Perros, has minimal facilities. We passed almost 30 walkers who had turned back - they all looked a bit dispirited. Not sure how Dickson was going to cope that night. The walk was hard in the rain, and I was stumbling the last bit through the moraine field. The camp might be better in a kinder light, but basically it was a frozen, sleety muddy dark hole, lol. Hubby further added to the deterioration of the tarp covered shelter door by getting stuck in the broken frame and falling A over T with it in the muddy puddles in the floor.
Day 5
We left Perros pretty early, spirits brighter as the weather had broken and it was overcast but with breaks in the cloud. We gave some extra food to a Belgian family there who had none left, and who were walking back that day. We knew there would be a lot of snow over Paso John Gardner, but Chino our guide has been portering and working here for 15 years and has crossed the pass literally hundreds of times (six times this season alone), so we trusted his advice. The group of English people had gone before us, and got over OK. This is the hardest day I have ever experienced. Hubby and he took some of my gear so I had no front packs on my Aarn pack (very steep in sections and they were interfering with visibility). I'm glad I had crampons, but it was slippery and slow going, having to punch a foot hold into snow with your toe for every step going up the zig zag ridges, guide pole to pole. Some 'flatter' (comparatively!) sections were almost thigh deep - pretty tiring going from one footstep hole to the next one, and your poles are no use as they sink to the handle. People before me all have longer legs too, so each step was a big effort! There were flowing streams under some of the snow. I found it mentally dificult and scary and had a cry and a sook somewhere near the top third. Aparrently this is not uncommon lol. One American girl the day before had demanded a helicopter (their group had to turn back). Anyway, once you finally get to the pass, the view over Grey Glacier is incredible, as is the wind! There is no snow, only scree, and you look over onto this amazing glacier field. It would have been great to have been able to spend more time there, but the freezing wind is just too much. The descent to the tree line was difficult and very slippery, as it had been melting all day, and the going was muddy, snowy and treacherous. It started to sleet and drizzle. In some places it was safer to go on your backside and glissade (is it still called glissading when it's on a mud slope??) The track here isn't well maintained. We had planned to be at Grey refugio that night, but there was no way we'd make it. Instead of a six hour crossing, it'd taken us 10 hours. Spent the night at Paso camp, with it's delightful concrete loo with the rope and broom (if you've been there you know what I'm talking about). A tree had fallen on a tent that day, no-one was hurt.
Frozen socks again in the morning - thaw them out in your bag before you get dressed - then at least they are warm, wet and muddy - not stiff.
Day 6
We were gone from Campamento Paso before seven am that morning, as our guide Chino was concerned at the levels of the streams we would have to cross, due to all the recent rain and the melting snow. Once again incredible mud, very steep slippery bits. There are two canyons you have to cross, with horrible slippery icy ladders to go down. I'm not good with heights, and worse with ladders it seems! The first stream was really up, and the water was waist high, the force was incredible as you felt it hit. Chino was amazing, he took my pack up and down the ladders for me, and helped to reduce the force of the water by standing upstream. He crossed that dangerous section several times. The next stream was also really flooded, but a bit easier as there are some ropes to hang onto. I literally wanted to hug the rock on other side. A bit further down the track we met a couple of rangers who were checking 'to see if the ladders were still there!' Every few years there are landslides and washaways. This section of the track was then closed, and no-one else allowed to leave Paso due to the dangerous conditions. We didn't see a group of four Germans again who were leaving afer us, and I think they may have turned back at the canyon and waited back at Paso for another day or so for the water to go down. There is a well made suspension bridge over a canyon where the previous ladders and crossing got washed away - built by an American and his wife who donated their design and time. We had a late lunch (and a beer) at Grey refugio , where we'd missed our booking for the night before, which looks lovely, and then headed off for a few hours more to spend the night at Refugio Paine Grande. That hot shower was bliss. I'd lost a toenail (rotted off, lol) and had a pretty impressive smelly fungal infection between my toes. I love dry socks

Day 7
I decided to have a rest day, while Chino and hubby took day packs and walked up French valley. They didn't go right to the top as once again the weather closed in. I do regret not going, but my knee was troubling me and I erred on the side of caution. It's funny, both my ankles and feet swelled up, and I thought it best to wear my airline compression socks. I guess like showjumpers who 'stock up' when they have a day not being ridden and they just stand around in the stable. I've not had it happen to me before. It's funny, I head people who were just walking the W section compaining about the mud, and the condition of the track. I just smiled to myself.
Day 8 and the rest
Catamaran back to 'civilisation', and where we were reunited with our luggage for the rest of our Patagonian trip - a luxurious hotel with incredible views, yummy dinners, fly fishing on the Rio Serrano (I caught and lost my first chinook salmon), another day walk to an estancia (cattle ranch) for New Years Eve and horseriding back. There was a search that night for one of the staff who'd had a fight with her gaucho boyriend and gone off walking out into the freezing night in the middle of no-where - they found her the next morning, cold but OK. Dramas. The riding was amazing, incredibly good horses that are like Range Rovers, down steep scree slopes that were scary enough when we walked up them. Mine was called Pirhana, hubby's was called Melon. Once dgain the weather was not the kindest. It was really cold fishing - I even had down pants under my waders. When we were rding it was raining and then snowing! I couldn't feel my lower legs when we finished. We finished our trip with a zodiac trip that took us to the base of a glacier - we had a glass of scotch with glacial ice in it, and a huge BBQ lunch at another estancia. Puerto Natales is a pretty cool little town, with funky cafes. It was odd to be back in Santiago - same country, worlds apart, and there it was humid and about 30 deg.
It'll take me a while to digest all I've seen and done.
Our guide Francisco (Chino) was amazing, and I know we wouldn't have been able to cross that pass without his help and knowledge. Nico was a great cook under some trying circumstances - he carried the tents and food for a few of thr middle days over the 'top' section of the circuit. Chile Nativo was excellent in all their organisation and luggage transfers between our varied activities. Chile Nativo organised all our accommodation and refugio bookings. Swoop Patagonia (a UK companty) was great in being able to put us in touch with the right people to help us
We'll plan to return here again in the future to explore more of Chile and bring our kids next time. We have discussed some great places to go with Chino, and I'm trying to convince him to come and stay and walk in Aust - he's keen. He's a mounatineer and climber, and worked in Colarado etc, but would love to spend some time here.
I have lots of pics of the huge variety of flowers and plants, incredible scenery. I'm going to order a book or two to help me identify some of them. The history and indiginous culture of Patagonia is really interestng too, and I've definitely got some good researching and reading to do. I bought some nice local silver and lapislazuli jewellery for myself and as Christmas gifts for my family back home, and a great wool cape like the ones the gauchos wear.
Where we stayed - all were great value, great atmosphere and decor and helpful staff
Punta Arenas - Hotel Carpa Manzano
Puerto Natales - Hostel Amerindia (it's a cool cafe too)
Hotel Rio Serrano (expensive, international type hotel, fabulous view, amazing meals)
Estancia Lazo
Santiago - Sur Petit Hotel - in the Providencia area
Guided fishing via Magellenes Flyfishing
I'm very glad I brought gaiters as I wore them constantly, we wore gortex overpants the whole time except the first and last day, and buffs, gloves, balaclavas etc. Just thin drip dry stretchy walking pants. I wore my usual short leather Oboze boots - longer boots would not have helped keep feet dry I can assure you! Brimmed caps needed under your hood as it was raining a lot and this helps to stop water getting on your glasses or sunnies. Polaroids (prescription ones for us), lip balm and sunscreen all needed. I wore merino thermals at night plus down pants and sweater. During the day we just walked in one layer (mine a long sleeved quarter zip Macpac top) under a hardshell, but put on a fleece if we stopped for snack. You need a down puffy once you stop walking, in camp, especially after it begins to gets dark - which is not until agfter 10 pm. I brought my Zpacks 20F sleeping bag and down balaclava, and hubby used a Western Mountaineering Summerlite, which was fine for the temps at night - just below freezing. We both used Thermrest Neoair Xlites with a reflective insulated foil layer on top of the tent floor to protect them. The tent was a 3P Mountain Hardware Trango which was Chile Nativo's (our porter Nico carried this for the days we spent in the northern section). I used my Aarn Natural Balance pack but found the front packs a hindrance in the steep snowy sections, and the twisty muddy tracks, so removed them for better visibility. I've not had this problem with it before in Aussie bush. Hubby used a 70L Osprey pack which was fine. Water doesn't need to be carried beyond a 600 ml plastic water bottle, as the glacial meltwater is great to drink. I take a Canon Powershot Zoom SX50 HS digital camera, which was great for the sort of pics I take.
Now just to get my knee sorted out....