Gear problems and causes / solutions

[MichelleN]

Turns out the bottle contained a dud batch. Manufacturer requested it be returned for testing and replacement metho burns perfectly!

[Moondog55]

I have a rather big problem with my plastic ski boots
Help and advice needed, even way-out ideas.
The black polyurethane heel pad in my Scarpa T2 boots has started to disintegrate due to hydrolysis.
I need to fabricate 2 replacements.
Before I go and spend any money what are my repair options?
Much wisdom and experience in the forum and I'm hoping for some good ideas

[GBW]

CCF or maybe a stubby holder cut to shape and glued. Depends how hard it needs to be. Rubber floor mat from a car? Glue cardboard together, make a filler using sawdust and glue, carve a piece of wood. Good luck and how's the snow camp going?

[Moondog55]

I've made a hole mould and cut some old acoustic felt to fit.
Should work well enough when silicon fills in all the small gaps

[trailmixisalie]

My macpac microlight is about 10 years old and the fabric is starting to sag having the problem no matter how taut I peg the corners out. It's annoying because the inside fly touches the outside material and leaks in. i have tried just tarp (no fly) but when i sit up or move around i scrape it.

is this the final days of it or is there a chance of revival?

[telemarktim]

Hi Tasadam and others, I hope my post is in the correct forum?

I have used (and some would say abused) my beloved 7tm Telemark bindings so much that all my skiing on/in them has brought about their demise. My DIY repairs and small modification to make them ready for backcountry/field servicing might interest others. The binding that needed the repair are the 7tm Alpine tour model with the step-in function (on the RHS of the photo). They are so nice to Telemark in that they get all the use (and wear) as I swap the binding over on a quiver of skis that all have the 7tm mounting plate fitted. The poor red ones (on the left) without the power bars get very little use.


Alpine tour pivot bolt
The first repair involved the nut and thread on the main alpine tour pivot bolt. They had been gouged away by repeated contact with the opposing ski edge. "Yes, to all you Telemark experts, I do ski with my feet too close together!"

I have replaced the original bolt. The one shown in the photo below is my replacement from BJ Bearings. It is somewhat harder than the original but is still showing considerable wear. It will be cheap and easy to replace once more when the time comes.


Alpine tour/Telemark lockdown button
The next repair was to the mushroom-headed button that holds down the Alpine tour pivot when Telemarking. It broke while away on tour (luckily on the last day). It would have been very difficult to repair without a comprehensive workshop. The main problem was the removal of the tiny pin that locks the rotary actuator arm to the button. It took considerable time and required a customised drift punching tool. Then came welding and grinding to repair the button. That was just routine.

The photo below shows the repaired button, after removal, welding and grinding back into shape. The repaired portion is slightly shinier than the rest.


So, while I was making the full repair in my workshop at home I also devised a way of removing the difficulty of the pin removal task for future repairs. "I confess, I also lost the the tiny pin, but as far as I was concerned it was NEVERgoing back!"

Underneath the button, I substituted the stubborn actuator holding pin with a split pin, of similar diameter, that could be easily removed at any time to make repairs (as shown in the photo below).


With the use of the split-pin, I even devised a backcountry temporary fix that would allow the telemark tour to continue with the use of a broken button, an old 4mm dia roofing nail and a backpacking multitool (or strong hands). I made the split pin modification to the second binding as a contingency for the future. That binding has earned just as many turns and may fail any time. Here is the nail option that allows the unused portion of a broken button to be used to hold the button in Telemark mode. The head of the nail conveniently locates in a groove to keep the nail in place while skiing (photo below).


For more details please see:
https://timtinker.com/7tm-binding-repairs/

Tim

[telemarktim]

I have a rather big problem with my plastic ski boots
Help and advice needed, even way-out ideas.
The black polyurethane heel pad in my Scarpa T2 boots has started to disintegrate due to hydrolysis.
I need to fabricate 2 replacements.
Before I go and spend any money what are my repair options?
Much wisdom and experience in the forum and I'm hoping for some good ideas

Hey Moondog, How about silicone rubber that is filled or extended with those little glass bubble things that they use in fibreglassing? The composite should be light, even insulating and will last forever or at least longer than the boots. I had a pair of plastic boots where the outer shell hydrolysed and broke in two while skiing. Only found out when I lifted my snow cuffs on my ski pants and the top of the boot fell off. Lucky your damage is cosmetic by comparison. Are you back skiing?
Tim

[EGM]

I've got a pretty basic question.

What's the best way to shorten back pack straps? Just cut, melt, fold and sew? If so what thread should I use?

Thanks.

Also I'm after some shock cord for tent poles, quilt straps and a couple of other things. Any recommendations of where to buy?

[Hiking Exped]

Cams cords sell all sort of shock type cord, straps, buckles, paracord.

Brilliant customer service and on line sales from Brisbane.

Camscords.com.au I think

[Lophophaps]

Before cutting a strap, make sure that the cut is in the right place. A builder maxim applies - measure twice, cut once. This applies to making sure that the two parts are the right way and not twisted. An overlap of about 30 mm should suffice. I use any poly-cotton thread that's the right shade. Start sewing slowly until the two parts are joined, then sew the other three sides, with diagonals. I usually finish with a zig-zag over the ends. A sharp needle is advised, preferably a heavier one such as an 80 or 90.

[crollsurf]

I've got a pretty basic question.

What's the best way to shorten back pack straps? Just cut, melt, fold and sew? If so what thread should I use?

Thanks.

Also I'm after some shock cord for tent poles, quilt straps and a couple of other things. Any recommendations of where to buy?

I normally cut to desired length and then use a lighter to melt the end so it doesn't fray. Practice on an offcut first so you get an even finish

[matagi]

I've got a pretty basic question.

What's the best way to shorten back pack straps? Just cut, melt, fold and sew? If so what thread should I use?

Thanks.

Also I'm after some shock cord for tent poles, quilt straps and a couple of other things. Any recommendations of where to buy?

Try a chandler for shock cord - they usually have it in different diameters. Whitworths should stock it.

[ChrisJHC]

Try a chandler for shock cord - they usually have it in different diameters. Whitworths should stock it.

Just make sure you get a bank loan before you enter Whitworths $$$

[EGM]

Thanks everyone.
That method sounds great lophophaps and I'll have a practice run on the piece I cut off.
I found online that Bogong in the city sells shock cord by the metre for a reasonable looking price so I'll try there.

[telemarktim]

Try a chandler for shock cord - they usually have it in different diameters. Whitworths should stock it.

Just make sure you get a bank loan before you enter Whitworths $$$

Hi All, boating shops have a big range of good shock cords and they are very cheap (loose change) and of very good quality. It is best to hot cut or quickly melt the cut ends after the cutting. A bit stinky so do it outside on the verandah. I use the 4-5mmcord for tension/wet stretching compensators in each of the doubled-up loop cords on my silnylon pyramid tents and it is good:
https://timtinker.com/diy-breathing-polyester-tent-for-backpacking/

It also takes a good single knot if a simple stop is required. I have made an alternative tangle-free smooth connection to thin nylon cords by using stretching and whipping and binding with thread and silicone rubber in a similar way that is used to make DIY replacement speer-gun rubbers.
https://timtinker.com/shock-cord-whipping-connection-with-silicone-rubber/

Tim

[Neo]

My best guess is a brush turkey went in then freaked out! Small items inside completely undisturbed. Torn in multiple directions each side, red seams still good

Best way to repair?
MSR Front Range pyramid 20D micro ripstop silnylon.

[telemarktim]

My best guess is a brush turkey went in then freaked out! Small items inside completely undisturbed. Torn in multiple directions each side, red seams still good

Best way to repair?
MSR Front Range pyramid 20D micro ripstop silnylon.

Unless the bush turkey ate some of it, you could try glueing it back together with RTV silicone rubber if it has the right type of silicone rubber coating.
https://timtinker.com/silnylon-glueing/
Use backing strips of silnylon under the joins. It will look ugly. Alternatively, you can replace the corner with turkeyproof fabric and hope that the turkey chooses the same corner next time. Tim

[Neo]

It was the best possible corner, the door flap with the least tension. Might send this off to the professionals for stitching.

[Petew]

I have had similar gaping wounds on a tent after a very bad storm with snapped poles ripping through the fly.

Tenacious tape on the back side of the fabric and seamgrip on the outside fixed it permanently. Still good three years later.

Obviously use the right type of seamgrip for the fabric.

[Neo]

I sent the Front Range to Remote Repairs. Replace panel sections of the corner with closest match $130 plus postage either way.

[Ben Ridgeback]

Hi all,

I have a circa 30 year old Macpac Olympus tent (the mauve coloured version) which is in good condition apart from the waterproofing coating that was applied along the seams of the outer. The coating is peeling and generally looks like it is long overdue for replacement.

Has anyone replaced the waterproofing coating on their Macpac tent and do you have any advice on doing the job properly and effectively?

Thanks in advance!

Ben

[Moondog55]

G'Day Ben I've always used diluted silicon for sea, sealing.
For a tent that old I'd use the cheapest silicon and dilute it with about 3 parts mineral turps/ Shellite of a mix of both and paint it on and then sooth of with a plastic scraper

[Neo]

Leaky umbrella.
Hi currently have the Six Moon Designs silver shadow carbon and find I get a leak from the apex which culminates in a drip down the shaft or at the spongey handle.

Has anyone else had this happen?

These are a Euroschrim Birdepal umbrella sold in the customised form by an outdoor brand (Helinox does the same).

My best guess is that the foam knob of the apex is wicking moisture, or that there is a leak where the fabric comes together at the apex under said knob.

[Moondog55]

My Altra shoes are filthy.
While in the past I've just thrown my runners and trainers into the washing machine these are a bit more expensive that Dunlop KT 26 and I'm wondering if doing so with these is a good idea?
How would you wash these ? Any particular soap or detergent?
I'm out of Sportwash and Nixwax down soap so I need to shop soon anyway. I find mesh shoes work better when clean

[Neo]

MD I have used the front loader at least once with a pair of Altra and they were fine. I have been using a wool wash or similar liquid for years so that wash was likely done with that not a powder. Once a different pair of trail shoes must have got a bit jammed on the edge of the barrel for the spin and gouged a groove on the side of a sole, no affect to their use. I would do it all again

[Biggles]

My Altra shoes are filthy.
While in the past I've just thrown my runners and trainers into the washing machine these are a bit more expensive that Dunlop KT 26 and I'm wondering if doing so with these is a good idea?
How would you wash these ? Any particular soap or detergent?
I'm out of Sportwash and Nixwax down soap so I need to shop soon anyway. I find mesh shoes work better when clean

Get a bar of VELVET soap, grate it down to small flakes and dissolve in a bucket of warm (not hot!) water. Remove insoles (they can be washed any which way you imagine), scrub with a a mildly stiff brush, rinse thoroughly and air dry.

I do this with my MERREL MOAB shoes without problem. No exxy proprietary cleaners needed.

[Lophophaps]

More stages may be advised. Soak in warm water to remove most dirt, then scrub lightly. Rinse then soak in warm soapy water. Pure soap is best. One more rinse and then dry.

[johnw]

More stages may be advised. Soak in warm water to remove most dirt, then scrub lightly. Rinse then soak in warm soapy water. Pure soap is best. One more rinse and then dry.

Also, before any soaking/washing the usual recommended practice is to let footwear dry out thoroughly then remove as much dirt/debris as possible with a stiff brush.

[Warin]

My 'first step' (pun) is to bang the shoes together ... wet or dry, end of the days walk, getting into the car etc. That usually gets rid of the major chunks. If there is time, and I'm keen, I'd take a stick and chase the tread groves out.

[Moondog55]

I might try the big vacuum cleaner to get as much dust and grit out of the mesh before I wash them, but rather than Velvet laundry soap which I'd have to go and buy maybe I'll try the SARD wonder soap which I already have. Just hosing them out hasn't worked so something more needed.
The wonder soap really works well on footbeds and frost plugs