Tue 20 Feb, 2018 6:47 pm
Tue 20 Feb, 2018 8:25 pm
Sat 24 Feb, 2018 11:03 am
Sun 25 Feb, 2018 4:21 am
Summit Col Route
Climb the slopes right (west) of the Crater Face, to reach the col immediately west of Tahurangi. Although this is a popular route to the summit, these slopes become very slushy and unstable in sunny conditions: avalanche-prone and not at all pleasant. There are much better alternatives.
From the col, the easiest route heads out across southwest slopes to the south ridge, then back to the summit, although climbing the top of the West Ridge is better.
Crater traverse / Tahurangi (2797 m) - ONLY IF NO VOLCANIC HAZARD WARNINGS! Continue past the Dome Shelter and skirt round the west side of the lake (be careful re. hidden crevasses) before heading up to the Summit Col between Te Ataahu and Tahurangi (north facing, snow may be very soft). Then depending on the season judge the best way of heading up to the summit by either heading straight up the West Ridge (steep with or without ice, NZ alpine grade 1+ or 2, class 4-5 scrambling ?, useful photo here) or heading SE and across to Skyline Ridge and up on to it where possible. Looks to be roughly 2 km to cover from the Dome to the summit, and 2 km back again. Ease of this will vary with the time of year as it can be cliff like at points but is generally rated as NZ alpine grade 1, i.e. you probably don't need a rope in winter unless there's a glacier/crevasse risk which there may be, see above but again may be a steep scramble if there's no snow.
Sun 25 Feb, 2018 11:21 am
Sun 25 Feb, 2018 1:20 pm
Mon 09 Apr, 2018 8:48 pm
Tue 10 Apr, 2018 3:31 am
Tue 10 Apr, 2018 8:01 pm
Wed 11 Apr, 2018 3:54 am
Aardvark wrote:It's not difficult. I hope you have done it or still plan to. Like you, when it was unknown to me, i was full of doubt. I've been up there numerous times now, and from many directions. It would be easier to go from Turoa straight to Tahurangi. If you're going from the Dome, it might be necessary to ascend Paretetaitonga some way in order to make it to the rim above the Mangaturuturu glacier. From there the route follows the ridgeline or crater rim.
Wed 11 Apr, 2018 6:57 pm
Wed 11 Apr, 2018 7:07 pm
Thu 12 Apr, 2018 3:02 am
Thu 12 Apr, 2018 3:13 am
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