I've wanted to do the full traverse of the Jamison Valley for many years. We'd been up Mt Solitary from the western side numerous times and had ventured down to the Kedumba Valley farm ruins to its east on one occasion. The logistics of getting to/from the start and end of the walk with only one vehicle had always turned me off the idea as it's something of a pain. But we finally got around to it about 3 weeks ago by joining an organised club walk. I was a bit apprehensive about that as we'd always done our own thing, and I often walk solo these days. But I actually enjoyed it and had a really good day out. It's a fairly solid 20kms with the very steep climb of the infamous "Col", gaining 800m of elevation over a short distance, being one of the day's more challenging highlights. Anyone wanting to lose weight would have been very pleased with the results.
We took the east-west route, starting from the locked gate near the old Queen Victoria Hospital off Kings Tableland Rd near Wentworth Falls, finishing at the top of the Golden Stairs near Katoomba. The initial walk into the Kedumba Valley section is an easy steep descent on a few kms of fire trail, eventually meeting the junction with the Mt Solitary foot track which then took us down to the Kedumba River. After a morning tea stop it was time to commence the approach to The Col.
The log crossing of the Kedumba River was less daunting than some had expected, and it didn't take long before we were straining and puffing as the gradient rapidly increased to what seemed near vertical in places. Plenty of slipping due to the slick, dry surface often coated with Casuarina needles. Grabbing rocks, tree roots or anything else handy was often needed to maintain balance and traction. Looking back down at other members of the party struggling upward I couldn't help thinking that I wouldn't want to descend this route. It would be quite treacherous.
Nearing the top became a minor rock scramble and I soon arrived at the lookout, duly signing the log book. I remember someone posting on the forums that they had replaced the book recently. I actually found two of them. So I signed the red one, which was the more substantial volume and appeared to be current (although there was some overlap in the entries). It contained an entry advising that the old book had been taken to NPWS at Blackheath. Thank you to the forum member who took care of all that (sorry I've forgotten who it was).
I was sweating buckets by this but cooled off quickly in the stiff breeze blowing across the lookout. Expansive views across to Lake Burragorang (Sydney's primary water supply dammed at Warragamba) and further afield to the Kanangra-Boyd Wilderness, and the Wild Dog Mountains closer by. After a break to allow everyone to recover from the climb we commenced the journey across the top of Mt Solitary. The going was now decidedly easy by comparison. We met a couple of other groups travelling in the opposite direction (we were to encounter numerous others later on). A lunch break was called at an expansive rock shelf lookout facing north to Katoomba, Wentworth Falls/Valley of the Waters et al. It was a sheltered spot in the sun and a very pleasant place to stop and soak up the warmth, as the breeze had kicked up somewhat on a fairly chilly day in the mountains.
On resuming, after a couple more kms, I recognised the easternmost point of Mt Solitary that we had visited on previous walks. I knew of a spectacular lookout off track nearby, and relayed a request to the leader to visit it, which we did. As far as I'm aware it's unnamed but IMHO has even better views than the top of The Col. On this occasion, among other features, Mt Cloudmaker clearly in view as well as Mt Colong prominent in the distance. We continued two or three kms further to Chinaman's Gully for a short stop to visit Melvilles Lookout, and some people topped up water supplies from the creek.
Continuing, we met a young Duke of Edinburgh group planning to overnight at Chinaman's Gully. Soon after, arriving at another familiar place - the top of the descent down the Korowall Knife-Edge. Some people had not been here before and were a bit surprised by the climbing gym antics required in places to scramble down. The track became very busy at times with numerous parties coming up, mostly overnighting, and with some extraordinarily heavy and cumbersome looking packs. We waited for a large school group at one point and it took some time for them to pass. I think everyone in our party had some fun with the descent, despite all the scrambling. Eventually we met easier terrain and a break for afternoon tea before the two final sections of the walk. The pleasant easy traverse of the Federal Pass followed, through mixed forest/rainforest, passing numerous campsites and the turnoff to the Ruined Castle.
We eventually reached the base of the Golden Stairs. A short break to regroup and wait for one or two stragglers before the final ascent of the day. The bottom third of the Golden Stairs has had extensive work done since I was last there and is now in excellent condition. There was evidence of work still to be done higher up, with construction materials lying beside the track. The condition eventually deteriorated to how I remembered it from previous visits. However, it is still in a very passable state, just a bit more care needed here. A final quick photo stop looking back at the whole day's route, now almost completed. Just a few more minutes saw us at the top grabbing for extra layers of clothing as the light dwindled, and we felt the full chill of the evening breeze while sorting out the return transport arrangements.
Distance 20km. Total Ascent 1000m. Walk Grading 4 Medium-Hard (club grading). As a day walk this is something of a misssion, but it's a good mission. It isn't for the unfit or faint hearted, but neither is it particularly difficult, just strenuous and needing some agility for the rock scramble down the western end of Mt Solitary. Navigation is generally easy for experienced walkers. The NPWS have installed new signage in this area, including numerous warnings following SAR incidents in recent years. Some may prefer to make this an overnight trip and camp on Mt Solitary. Chinamans Gully is the most popular spot, with its cave overhang and small creek, but there are options for a dry camp elsewhere. Just don't take a heavy pack.