Jamison Valley Traverse via Mt Solitary

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Jamison Valley Traverse via Mt Solitary

Postby johnw » Wed 08 Jun, 2011 1:48 am

I've wanted to do the full traverse of the Jamison Valley for many years. We'd been up Mt Solitary from the western side numerous times and had ventured down to the Kedumba Valley farm ruins to its east on one occasion. The logistics of getting to/from the start and end of the walk with only one vehicle had always turned me off the idea as it's something of a pain. But we finally got around to it about 3 weeks ago by joining an organised club walk. I was a bit apprehensive about that as we'd always done our own thing, and I often walk solo these days. But I actually enjoyed it and had a really good day out. It's a fairly solid 20kms with the very steep climb of the infamous "Col", gaining 800m of elevation over a short distance, being one of the day's more challenging highlights. Anyone wanting to lose weight would have been very pleased with the results.

We took the east-west route, starting from the locked gate near the old Queen Victoria Hospital off Kings Tableland Rd near Wentworth Falls, finishing at the top of the Golden Stairs near Katoomba. The initial walk into the Kedumba Valley section is an easy steep descent on a few kms of fire trail, eventually meeting the junction with the Mt Solitary foot track which then took us down to the Kedumba River. After a morning tea stop it was time to commence the approach to The Col.

The log crossing of the Kedumba River was less daunting than some had expected, and it didn't take long before we were straining and puffing as the gradient rapidly increased to what seemed near vertical in places. Plenty of slipping due to the slick, dry surface often coated with Casuarina needles. Grabbing rocks, tree roots or anything else handy was often needed to maintain balance and traction. Looking back down at other members of the party struggling upward I couldn't help thinking that I wouldn't want to descend this route. It would be quite treacherous.
SDC10560.jpg
The steep climb up The Col

Nearing the top became a minor rock scramble and I soon arrived at the lookout, duly signing the log book. I remember someone posting on the forums that they had replaced the book recently. I actually found two of them. So I signed the red one, which was the more substantial volume and appeared to be current (although there was some overlap in the entries). It contained an entry advising that the old book had been taken to NPWS at Blackheath. Thank you to the forum member who took care of all that (sorry I've forgotten who it was).
SDC10562.JPG
The final obstacle before arrivng at the top

I was sweating buckets by this but cooled off quickly in the stiff breeze blowing across the lookout. Expansive views across to Lake Burragorang (Sydney's primary water supply dammed at Warragamba) and further afield to the Kanangra-Boyd Wilderness, and the Wild Dog Mountains closer by. After a break to allow everyone to recover from the climb we commenced the journey across the top of Mt Solitary. The going was now decidedly easy by comparison. We met a couple of other groups travelling in the opposite direction (we were to encounter numerous others later on). A lunch break was called at an expansive rock shelf lookout facing north to Katoomba, Wentworth Falls/Valley of the Waters et al. It was a sheltered spot in the sun and a very pleasant place to stop and soak up the warmth, as the breeze had kicked up somewhat on a fairly chilly day in the mountains.
SDC10580.jpg
"Civilisation" in the distance to the north

On resuming, after a couple more kms, I recognised the easternmost point of Mt Solitary that we had visited on previous walks. I knew of a spectacular lookout off track nearby, and relayed a request to the leader to visit it, which we did. As far as I'm aware it's unnamed but IMHO has even better views than the top of The Col. On this occasion, among other features, Mt Cloudmaker clearly in view as well as Mt Colong prominent in the distance. We continued two or three kms further to Chinaman's Gully for a short stop to visit Melvilles Lookout, and some people topped up water supplies from the creek.
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Southern Blue Mountains region from an unnamed lookout on the south side of Mt Solitary. Mt Cloudmaker in clear view with Mt Colong in the distance.

Continuing, we met a young Duke of Edinburgh group planning to overnight at Chinaman's Gully. Soon after, arriving at another familiar place - the top of the descent down the Korowall Knife-Edge. Some people had not been here before and were a bit surprised by the climbing gym antics required in places to scramble down. The track became very busy at times with numerous parties coming up, mostly overnighting, and with some extraordinarily heavy and cumbersome looking packs. We waited for a large school group at one point and it took some time for them to pass. I think everyone in our party had some fun with the descent, despite all the scrambling. Eventually we met easier terrain and a break for afternoon tea before the two final sections of the walk. The pleasant easy traverse of the Federal Pass followed, through mixed forest/rainforest, passing numerous campsites and the turnoff to the Ruined Castle.

We eventually reached the base of the Golden Stairs. A short break to regroup and wait for one or two stragglers before the final ascent of the day. The bottom third of the Golden Stairs has had extensive work done since I was last there and is now in excellent condition. There was evidence of work still to be done higher up, with construction materials lying beside the track. The condition eventually deteriorated to how I remembered it from previous visits. However, it is still in a very passable state, just a bit more care needed here. A final quick photo stop looking back at the whole day's route, now almost completed. Just a few more minutes saw us at the top grabbing for extra layers of clothing as the light dwindled, and we felt the full chill of the evening breeze while sorting out the return transport arrangements.
SDC10599.jpg
Mt Solitary from the Golden Stairs showing most of the day's route just completed

Distance 20km. Total Ascent 1000m. Walk Grading 4 Medium-Hard (club grading). As a day walk this is something of a misssion, but it's a good mission. It isn't for the unfit or faint hearted, but neither is it particularly difficult, just strenuous and needing some agility for the rock scramble down the western end of Mt Solitary. Navigation is generally easy for experienced walkers. The NPWS have installed new signage in this area, including numerous warnings following SAR incidents in recent years. Some may prefer to make this an overnight trip and camp on Mt Solitary. Chinamans Gully is the most popular spot, with its cave overhang and small creek, but there are options for a dry camp elsewhere. Just don't take a heavy pack.
John W

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Re: Jamison Valley Traverse via Mt Solitary

Postby Lizzy » Wed 08 Jun, 2011 7:45 am

Excellent report John. I did this walk in the oppostie direction many years ago camping up top. Transport logisitics make it interesting- we had left the car at Katoomba & hoped to walk to the hospital at the other end and phone a taxi. Huffing & puffing up the track at the end, suddenly someone jumped out & scared the life out of us. It was my Dad :o making a suprise visit :D . Lucky too- because I don't think there was a phone & this was before mobiles!!
Loverly photos- will have to get back there sometime
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Re: Jamison Valley Traverse via Mt Solitary

Postby Lindsay » Wed 08 Jun, 2011 11:39 am

Great report and pictures John. I did this in reverse last year as an overnighter, I recall thinking as I was descending from the Col to Kedumba River that I would hate to be going up the hill. :)
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Re: Jamison Valley Traverse via Mt Solitary

Postby johnw » Wed 08 Jun, 2011 11:47 am

Lizzy wrote:Excellent report John. I did this walk in the oppostie direction many years ago camping up top. Transport logisitics make it interesting- we had left the car at Katoomba & hoped to walk to the hospital at the other end and phone a taxi. Huffing & puffing up the track at the end, suddenly someone jumped out & scared the life out of us. It was my Dad :o making a suprise visit :D . Lucky too- because I don't think there was a phone & this was before mobiles!!
Loverly photos- will have to get back there sometime
Cheers
Lizzy

Thanks Lizzy. That was lucky! Yes the logistics can be interesting as both ends are fairly isolated. We took taxis from Wentworth Falls station to the start. Some cars were left at the Golden Stairs, although we were a bit short as it turned out. Drivers kindly ran a shuttle service to Katoomba. Train from there back to Wentworth Falls. I think if doing it with a single car I'd leave it near the Golden Stairs and have a taxi pre-booked to drive to the start. Wouldn't be cheap though :shock:.
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Re: Jamison Valley Traverse via Mt Solitary

Postby johnw » Wed 08 Jun, 2011 12:00 pm

Lindsay wrote:Great report and pictures John. I did this in reverse last year as an overnighter, I recall thinking as I was descending from the Col to Kedumba River that I would hate to be going up the hill. :)

Thanks Lindsay. I guess it's a bit of a challenge in either direction, I'm just (mostly) more comfortable on steep climbs than descents. Scrambling down the Korowall side has never bothered me too much, but there are plenty of things to hang onto there. Occasionally it can be a bit of a worry when I climb up something and wonder if I'll be able to get back down :lol:.
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Re: Jamison Valley Traverse via Mt Solitary

Postby Packo » Tue 05 Jul, 2011 6:48 am

Thanks for the track notes John.
I also have done this walk in the opposite direction, even though it was 20 years ago and I camped overnight up on top. I plan on doing the walk again this Saturday in the direction you traveled. I am lucky enough to live in the area and plan to finish the walk via the Furber Steps, Katoomba where my wife will pick me up after she finishes work. I will let you know how I go. :D
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Re: Jamison Valley Traverse via Mt Solitary

Postby johnw » Tue 05 Jul, 2011 2:20 pm

Packo wrote:Thanks for the track notes John.
I also have done this walk in the opposite direction, even though it was 20 years ago and I camped overnight up on top. I plan on doing the walk again this Saturday in the direction you traveled. I am lucky enough to live in the area and plan to finish the walk via the Furber Steps, Katoomba where my wife will pick me up after she finishes work. I will let you know how I go. :D

Good work Packo, thanks for that. Having transport organised is a key part of a good trip for this as a day walk. If you're nearing Furber Steps before 4:50 pm you could take the last scenic railway up, if you feel like a rest. Enjoy the trip, I look forward to your report. :D
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Re: Jamison Valley Traverse via Mt Solitary

Postby Packo » Mon 11 Jul, 2011 7:21 am

I did this walk on Saturday. This is how I recorded it on my blog.

The day started out with my wife dropping me off at the Kedumba Gate out the end of Tablelands Road, Wentworth Falls. It was 7:30am and there were a couple of cars parked at the gate already. Another pulled up just as I was about to leave so I quickly got a move on to try and get a bit of distance between us. A couple of hundred metres down the track I had to stop and put a beanie & jacket on as it very cold in the wind. I checked on my Kestrel weather gauge and it was 4 deg C but with the wind chill it was closer to zero. The walk down Kedumba Pass to the start of the track was nice and quick and I was soon on the trail too Kedumba River. Using the fallen tree to cross the river was a bit of fun. Apart from losing my sunglasses climbing under a few branches blocking the path but by the time I realised I had lost them I wasn’t going back to get them, even though I did think about it quite hard as they weren’t that old.

The climb up to The Col was hard. Having two walking poles helped heaps, and I don’t know what I would do without them now. Its only taken about 40km of walking with them to get me hooked. I passed two young guys coming down. They had spent the night at Chinamans Cave and were on there way to Kedumba. I was happy to be going up as I find going down much more taxing on the knees. I got to The Col at just before 11am. There was a young lady there having a quite cup of coffee and she was surprised to see me. She had left the Golden Stairs at 6am and I was the first person she had seen on her trip so far. Noting that she had taken 5 hours to get this far I now knew that time was something I didn’t have much of. Not if I want to get to the Furber Steps before dusk. I had a quick snack, signed the log book, found the geocache and got on my way.

I found the track over Mount Solitary a little hard to find in places but after a quick look around you could see where others had been. I remembered when I walked the opposite direction over twenty years ago and someone had come through and painted massive white arrows on every large rock along the whole route. I am glad most of those have been weathered away. After the high wind that have battered the area in the last week it wasn’t a surprise to see so many fallen trees over the track and wearing a pair of gators would of prevented a fair few scratched on my shins, but they were at home. Another thing I didn’t remember was the major rock scramble of Korowall Knife-Edge. What a buzz. At times I wondered if I was on the right track. A few time I though that I was going to have to go back up and find the correct track but deep down inside I knew I was heading in the right direction and I didn’t really have the time to spare to look around for another. As I got closer to the base of the scramble I passed a few people on there way to an overnight stay on the hill. Lugging large packs through that route is not going to be an easy thing for them to do at all.

By the time I got to the flat that passes around the Ruined Castle it was passing 3pm and I knew I wasn’t going to make the Furber Steps before dusk so I set my sights on The Golden Stairs for my exit out of the valley. I was happy for the nice flat walk past the old mine areas and numerous camping sites below the Ruined Castle to gain a bit of time and to rest my legs a little after the steep climb down. Before I knew it an hour had passed and I was at the base of the Golden Stairs. I had passed a couple they were heading out to the Ruined Castle. I made them aware that darkness was just around the corner and it will come quick. I suggested not going any further and to come back another day, but they kept on going. I hope they had the scene to turn around soon after and give themselves some more time next time. The climb up the Golden Stairs was pretty easy going. The work that has been done over that last few months has been fantastic. Some of the stone steps show workmanship that is to be admired. Once up on top I rang the good wife to let her know I was still alive and that I was walking back to town on Narrow Neck Road. I put on a jacket and beanie again as the wind was cutting through me. Before I got to the end of the road she was there in a pre heated car. My walk had come to an end, and a wonderful walk it was.

Thanks again John for the very helpful track notes.

:D Pictures, video, map and stats can be found here :D
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Re: Jamison Valley Traverse via Mt Solitary

Postby HitchHiking » Mon 11 Jul, 2011 11:36 am

Sounds like a nice walk pakco!
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Re: Jamison Valley Traverse via Mt Solitary

Postby johnw » Mon 11 Jul, 2011 2:35 pm

Great report Packo, I enjoyed re-walking it through the video on your blog :). Thought it might be a little chilly up there on Saturday (I decided to stay down low and out of the wind in Royal NP). I wondered how you'd go after the destructive winds last week. Not surprised about tree fall along the track, NPWS closed some areas around the upper mountains before the weekend, mainly around Govetts Leap I think. A wise decision to finish at the Golden Stairs, good to have that flexibility. I don't think I'd enjoy crossing the landslide after dusk :shock:.
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Re: Jamison Valley Traverse via Mt Solitary

Postby flatfoot » Mon 11 Jul, 2011 2:46 pm

Packo - great info you've posted there! My club now requires us to include ascent/descent info in the blurb for all walks we run. That will be useful reference info for me.

I usually start the walk at 7am from Kings Tableland. I usually allow for a relaxed pace. My preferred lunch spot is the top of the knife edge for views of the ruined castle. That allows time for the more energetic to have a diversion up to the ruined castle (that's a tough climb after climbing up the col and then traversing Mt Solitary). I usually head out via the Golden Stairs. I generally make the top of the stairs between 4pm and 4:30pm.

I've never walked round past the landslide and should have a look sometime.
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Re: Jamison Valley Traverse via Mt Solitary

Postby DarrenM » Mon 11 Jul, 2011 3:51 pm

Some great reading and pics!
My wife and I took a more leisurely 2 days recently and enjoyed the trip immensely. Bit of a trip report here.
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Re: Jamison Valley Traverse via Mt Solitary

Postby HitchHiking » Mon 11 Jul, 2011 5:57 pm

DarrenM wrote:Some great reading and pics!
My wife and I took a more leisurely 2 days recently and enjoyed the trip immensely. Bit of a trip report here.


Thats a great report and pictures there Darren. What was the walkers injury that got lifted out there. I hope they are ok.
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Re: Jamison Valley Traverse via Mt Solitary

Postby DarrenM » Mon 11 Jul, 2011 7:09 pm

Due to the rotorwash we were ushered past the injured gent fairly quickly. He was limping with the aid of two ground crew and seemed in a reasonable amount of pain. No visible break so possibly a knee injury of sorts. Very efficient rescue crew!
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Re: Jamison Valley Traverse via Mt Solitary

Postby north-north-west » Wed 13 Jul, 2011 6:59 pm

Packo wrote:Apart from losing my sunglasses climbing under a few branches . . .


Somewhere there is a planet inhabited by lost sunglasses, one with a serious overpopulation problem.
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