Stirling Ranges

[kaite]

Thinking of going there when i go west in late Nov and some of Dez. Any advice anybody?
One of my problems is transport... i can get hold of a car, but if i do some Bibbulmun as well, i would prefer public transport, as for backtracking and leaving car in remote places etc... though seams there is no public transport to Stirling Ranges?

[InspirationOutdoors]

Hi Kate, Most of the hikes in the Stirlings are up and back. i.e. Mt Trio, Toolbrunup, Hassell, Taylyuberlup and Bluff Knoll. If you are doing a point to point walk like the ridge walk, the Stirling Range retreat do pick ups and drop offs. Allow 3 days to do the ridge.

Have fun. The ridge is in my opinion one of the best walks in Oz

[kaite]

thanks for your reply IO, haven't looked in here for a while as i had to delay my trip west, but am heading there now after xms. I still want to give the Stirling Ranges a go specially this time of the year where i guess south and high would be coolest...
The pictures of the ridge walk look great and it was the walk that tempted me most, till i read all these reports on a site about the Stirling Ranges, in all of them it is described as amazingly difficult by ppl who class themselves as young and very fit...? You seam to suggest it is quite doable? I gather the difficulty is having to possibly carry water for the whole trip, also i have read that it is not well marked and it is easy to get lost? I will be on my own, how tough is it, what is tough about it? how likely to find water?

[Tintin]

thanks for your reply IO, haven't looked in here for a while as i had to delay my trip west, but am heading there now after xms. I still want to give the Stirling Ranges a go specially this time of the year where i guess south and high would be coolest...
The pictures of the ridge walk look great and it was the walk that tempted me most, till i read all these reports on a site about the Stirling Ranges, in all of them it is described as amazingly difficult by ppl who class themselves as young and very fit...? You seam to suggest it is quite doable? I gather the difficulty is having to possibly carry water for the whole trip, also i have read that it is not well marked and it is easy to get lost? I will be on my own, how tough is it, what is tough about it? how likely to find water?

I was one of those naive "young and fit" people. I attempted the ridge walk in November but was quite underprepared as it was my first real multi-day hike. Boy did I learn a lot! I went east to west and made it a camp site just below Ellen's Peak. I think it was 11km to get there, with quite steep scrambling for the latter half of that. I went with one mate and we turned around the next morning after a storm hit at 3 PM (blessing in disguise as we didn't have enough water). The biggest issue is the lack of water. You have to take all your water with you which will weigh you down considerably as it amounts to at least half of your pack Wright. I only took 5L which was my first mistake (behind wearing no hiking shoes!), and I drank 4L on the first day. Most people take 7-10L from what I have read. It was 30 degrees and I succumbed to a bit of heat stroke and left my mark of vomit on the mountains... Fantastic views but you have to be quite experienced to make it. Your pack weight plays a huge part. I think I took 20kg, but took too much unnecessary things or items which were simply too heavy. I've upgraded my gear and am much more prepared. there are false trails but from my experience they weren't too long before you reached a dead end. Download the GPS coordinates if you have a GPS. I downloaded a Google Eartg KMZ file of the coordinates and used my iPhone (I had a spare USB battery pack in case it went flat). The reception is perfect if you are with Telstra 4G, not sure about other networks.Fantastic views though, we actually saw lightening spark a big fire 30km north which made us panic, until a shower came across and put it ou! It was a remarkable thing to see. I can't wait to go back after summer when it's cooler. I'll take enough water to get to the water barrel. If it's full then great, if not then I can take the only escape route back down the mountain. In the meantime I am getting the girlfriend into hiking and we'll be doing the day hikes to the numerous peaks in the Stirling Ranges over Christmas.

Little video I made of the hike: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zyayKz1fAvY

[kaite]

Thanks heaps for taking the time to explain things a bit Tintin, don't like the look of your wonky load... but yes i can see you are much younger than me....( won't tell my age otherwise ppl would feel obliged to dicurage me...) i have to be frugal with weight. 4 l per day is a lot of water... hm.. but so glad for advice, also good to hear there is phone reception.
So if you still look in here, i have one more question, is the track pretty much all up to the barrel, you say if there is no water you would then escape back down... i assume along the track and, that going back form the barrel is much faster than going on? I assume to head downhill cross country is not what you mean....

[Tintin]

Thanks heaps for taking the time to explain things a bit Tintin, don't like the look of your wonky load... but yes i can see you are much younger than me....( won't tell my age otherwise ppl would feel obliged to dicurage me...) i have to be frugal with weight. 4 l per day is a lot of water... hm.. but so glad for advice, also good to hear there is phone reception.
So if you still look in here, i have one more question, is the track pretty much all up to the barrel, you say if there is no water you would then escape back down... i assume along the track and, that going back form the barrel is much faster than going on? I assume to head downhill cross country is not what you mean....

No problem. Yes I had a very large sleeping mat and didn't strap it to my bag.

You essentially climb uphill to Ellen's Peak (if you're doing it east to west), then you're on the ridge and its smaller ascents and descents as you head along the ridge and then back downhill at Bluff Knoll. The water barrel is roughly half way along in this direction, and there is an escape route along the North Mirlpunda Track back down the ridge. It's still 11km back to your car, but it's all downhill and flat so a lot less taxing compared to continuing the ridge walk. But of course I can't say from experience as I haven't done that part!

Here's a map: http://www.torridonbooks.com.au/ridgewalk_map.pdf

Only you know your limits, but if your not too strong or fit and especially over summer, I wouldn't recommend it. There are plenty of day hikes which let you summit several of the peaks and won't require you taking anywhere near the pack weight you would if doing the ridge walk.

[kaite]

again, thanks heaps for advice! My plan is to do all the other walks up there first, (checking out plants) so i'll get a feel for the place and temp of season..and depending on that will decide... but as you say it might be extremely hot, here too, but in summer we mostly walk in shade... wish you good xms walking and camping!

[mikethepike]

I was at the Stirling Ranges about 6 years ago and climbed Bluff Knoll and two other peaks. The range is extraordinary in landform shapes and vegetation and it's exciting even just to look at. A ridgetop traverse screams out to be done but the going looks to be pretty slow and water is the main and in fact, the overwhelming concern. Another concern is the risk of spreading Phytophera. The adjacent Porongurup Range is badly affercted by the disease and the thought of spreading it in the Stirling Range is something to think about. On the traverse, I would take meths to treat my boots each day even if just to feel better about walking there if nothing else as I suppose that wallabies or other animals could be spreading the fungus of course. A formal ridgetop traverse route, commercial or otherwise, would be the last thing I would want to see there although it would be an incredible and unique walk.

[farefam]

If camping out overnight in the Stirling Range you need to carry about 4 litres of water per day as there are no reliable water sources anywhere in the range (particularly in the central and western part of the range). The views are worth it though,especially the Ridge Walk https://picasaweb.google.com/114064244807961094522/StirlingRangeRidgeWalkBluffKnollToSecondArrow https://picasaweb.google.com/114064244807961094522/StirlingRangeRidgeWalkSecondArrowToEllenPeak, Mt Hassell, Toolbrunup and Talyuberlup Peakhttps://picasaweb.google.com/114064244807961094522/StirlingRangeNationalParkTheCentralPeaks. All of the trails are steep. The wildflowers are especially lovely in Spring but there is usually something in flower all year round.

[Swmtbr]

Hi all.
I'm am also looking to do the Ridge walk in the near future. i would preferably like to do it with someone that has been previously. If not other experienced hikers would be fine. I'm a fairly fit 38 yr old male that with a good amount of bush walking experience but I understand that the ridge walk is a new level and is going to be very challenging. I've been to the ranges a few times now with a few good runs up bluff knoll. Very keen to give the ridge a go

[paulmp]

I live in the South West and have done the Ridge Walk a few times.. you can organise transport with the Stirling Range Retreat, good cheap accommodation there too. I definitely recommend *not* doing it in November - March, you can get a random 40+ degree day at any given time during that period. As has been said repeatedly, water is a very real issue, you are hiking amongst salt bush, very little shade for the most part and it is incredibly dry, it's the biggest mistake most people make when hiking anywhere in Western Australia. Winter can be very wet, but the hike is fine if you don't get a storm.

[GraemeSpedding]

Hi Folks
Have just completed the Ridge ( Ellen Peak to Bluff Knoll) again and can report that the Barrel at Third Arrow is full. Thankfully the hoses and related paraphernalia attached to it by parks have been removed. Rats chewing the plastic piping apparently. The climb up is, as ever, steep and tricky when wet and muddy - as it was on Monday ( 18th). Please use water wisely- for cooking and drinking. I did not treat it, nor have I ever seen the need.
Reminder that this is a Fuel Stove Only Area - a few camp fire rings have popped up.
The BUNKHOUSE at Glenelg Farm is a good place to stay for the first night and for $25 per person is a good deal. They can shuffle your car to Bluff Knoll if you arrange in advance.
Be careful to pay your parking fees if leaving a car in the Bluff Knoll Carpark. $12 should do it.
Please also register in the log book ( strangely over the road from the self registration and parking fee pay station) and report the state of the walk and the Water Barrel to help others on your return.
The Bordern Tavern still does a good meal if the Stirling Range Cafe is closed.
Cheers
Graeme

[walk2wineries]

thanks for your reply IO, haven't looked in here for a while as i had to delay my trip west, but am heading there now after xms. I still want to give the Stirling Ranges a go specially this time of the year where i guess south and high would be coolest...
The pictures of the ridge walk look great and it was the walk that tempted me most, till i read all these reports on a site about the Stirling Ranges, in all of them it is described as amazingly difficult by ppl who class themselves as young and very fit...? You seam to suggest it is quite doable? I gather the difficulty is having to possibly carry water for the whole trip, also i have read that it is not well marked and it is easy to get lost? I will be on my own, how tough is it, what is tough about it? how likely to find water?

yes, generous reply from Inspiration Outdoors particularly as they run supported walks in the area!
I went by myself to Bluff Knoll and the Pongerups a couple of years ago; they were pouring resources into improving and extending the Pongerup walks - I enjoyed it all very much. Lots of orchids! This year I went with Inspiration Outdoors on their SW explorer which I would recommend; the Fitzgerald River area I wasn't familiar with & certainly hasn't got public transport. Lots of investment recently in their paths & signage and its very lovely - as lovely as Freycinet and far more interesting than Bay of Fires. I already knew some of the CapeleGrand coastal track but was happy to revisit- again, one-way tracks and no public transport, good excuses for me to take the easy option of a supported walk.
You probably know that for the Bibbulmun the Friends of the Bibulman can often suggest locals who do dropoffs etc.

[PaddleHEAD]

again, thanks heaps for advice! My plan is to do all the other walks up there first, (checking out plants) so i'll get a feel for the place and temp of season..and depending on that will decide... but as you say it might be extremely hot, here too, but in summer we mostly walk in shade... wish you good xms walking and camping!

Kaite, wondering if you ventured to the Stirlings and managed to do the Ridge Walk?

[PaddleHEAD]

Hi all.
I'm am also looking to do the Ridge walk in the near future. i would preferably like to do it with someone that has been previously. If not other experienced hikers would be fine. I'm a fairly fit 38 yr old male that with a good amount of bush walking experience but I understand that the ridge walk is a new level and is going to be very challenging. I've been to the ranges a few times now with a few good runs up bluff knoll. Very keen to give the ridge a go

If you re looking for a Perth based training location for the Stirlings, load up you pack and walk in the Paruna Sanctuary. 12-15km of up/down whilst enjoying the views of the Avon Valley. Very pleasant, plus a good workout. We have done the Ridge a few times, and be prepared for all weather. As previous posts mention, avoid summer. Don't under estimate the require fitness. The walk will not disappoint - spectacular. Our favourite location.

[Tintin]

Just came back from completing the SRW last weekend. It was nice cool weather (less than 18 deg C all week), and so I took 8L of water to drink and cook with which ended up being a good amount. I didn't get water at the Third Arrow because it was a tough climb up and I didn't need it.

[BGA]

Do not know if you have managed your walk yet. Be aware that the Stirling Ranges can be very hot over summer (late December through to the end of March) but at the same time can experience extreme cold weather. It is a very strenuous walk with very little access to water and should not be undertaken by inexperienced walkers with limited navigational skills.

If you sort your transport issues and are ready to undertake the walk I suggest you get hold of a copy of "Mountain Walks in the Stirling Range" Part 2 a pictorial guide by A T Morphet.

Whilst as suggested the Stirling Range retreat do some shuttles there is limited transport to that location. A cab from Albany would cost a few hundred dollars each way so it makes a hire car a cheap option even if you leave it at the retreat for the duration of your walk.

I have done the Ridge Walk and Half Ridge Walk several times but apart from a solo trip I have been able to do pre-walk drops of water at the saddle below Ellen Peak, at the top of the North Mirlpunda (three arrows) track just west of 3 arrows and on another occassion at the top of the North Isongerup track between Moongoongoonderup Hill and Bluff Knoll. These involved a lot of walking and were done to cater to the needs of friends from the east that I often walk with. I suppose the point is that there are options if you have the time and the planning.

Look forward to seeing how you went when you knock it off.