by scrub master » Fri 11 Jul, 2008 11:42 pm
All I can say here is good luck, you're going to need it - particularly at that time of year. Spring weather in Tas is noutoriously fickle. If it is at all possible, it would be better to delay your trip a month or two.
Detailed route information is available on thesarvo.com (along with some amazing shots en route) or Gerry Narckowicz's Guide "Climb Tasmania". I also have a copy of Reg Williams' original guide but thesarvo information is pretty much a word for word copy. I also have a copy of an old MUMC article of the original ascent which gives a bit of additional useful information. The grades of the routes are 17 for Blade Ride proper, 16 for the NW face and 18 for the direct finish
While I haven't been on the NW face, I have done the Golden Diedre on the NE (Bechervaise) Face twice which I can highly recommend if you find the NW face a bit intimidating when you get there. Talking to friends who have been on the face, the general opinion is not to bother with Blade Ridge. The first few pitches are very poorly protected and scary - scorparia bush runners on a slippery, scrubby face. The rock after this is also a bit chossy. The base of Blade Ridge is also very difficult to locate from the Northern Lakes. It's worth spending a day or two to get your bearings around the place. If you haven't already been there, I would strongly suggest you go to the top by the walkers route so you know the way down after the climb.
The best place to set up a base camp would be the platforms on upper Bechervaise Plateau which will take 4 tents at a pinch. Although , there is great camping on the western side at hanging lake and Thwaites, the forest chute track from this side is very overgrown and scrubby and very difficult to follow. Conversely, from Bechervaise it is a very open rock scree practically all the way down. From Berchervaise it is also possible to traverse into the top of blade ridge if you change your mind. From here, you also have easy access to all of the routes on the Bechervaise face.
If your primary aim is to climb on the peak, I would recommend coming from the east through Farmhouse Ck. While the Eastern Arthurs is a brilliant trip, it will take 3-4 days from Scotts Pk or the Huon Track (not recommended) whereas a strong party can be at Bechervaise in 1.5 days from Farmhouse.
As far as transport is concerned, depending on how many of you there are, it's not such a silly idea to catch a taxi from Hobart !!! If there are 4 or more of you, it actually works out cheaper than the bus, but you get to decide where and when you want to go. The company I used to use when I was a mainlander is Huonville Taxis. Don't bother with Hobart based companies - most of them don't even know where Geeveston is let alone Farmhouse or Scots Pk !
I think I've prattled on enough for now. Good luck with your trip planning. I hope you have a successful trip. If you need any more information then drop me a personal message and I'll see what I can get out of my climbing friends. As already mentioned, climbing on Federation is a very serious undertaking not to be taken lightly but I would have to rate it as one of the best things I have done down here.