I have $1000 and I am a monkey with a camera

[Kainas]

My shots aren't that bad, and I do pick up things pretty fast. Our last camera died on our last trip (something about getting too close to a waterfall). So I am angling for one for my birthday...I just haven't got a clue where to begin, and I don't like asking sales people.

How I use my camera:
I love taking photos when I am on holidays. So lots of happy snaps, but I also want to start taking alot more decent photos, event taking a course down the track. The thought of going on a walk without a camera almost saps the joy away...I just love photgraphing everything that I see, and really want to improve the quality of the photos that I am taking.

Wants:
My only real want would be some sort of waterproof/water resisitance. I think all my other wants are pretty standard (video, light weight, etc).
I want to be able to play around with shutter speed...I have no idea how, but I would like to get there (http://bushwalkaustralia.com/forum/view ... f=23&t=300)

Could anyone point me in the right direction?

[the_camera_poser]

Do you want to take a lot of artistic shots, and are you into having full control of the camera, or are you happy using it as point-and-shoot, with only control of shutter speed?

Do you want a DSLR or a point and shoot? You wont get a good waterproof/resistant DSLR system for $1000, in my experience.

I'd think of the following:

Canon G10 with a waterproof casing- was, and as far as I know, still is, the most advanced point-and-shoot on the market. NICE camera.

Canon's new waterproof and shock-resistant point-and-shoot (don't remember the name, but it wont be out for a few months)

Panasonic LX3 with waterproof casing (almost as good as the Canon, though many think it's better)

Olympus makes a water-and-shock resistant point and shoot, but it's image quality is a bit limited.

Have a look at http://www.dpreview.com- there's a features search for new cameras.

Remember, more megapixels is NOT better than fewer in point-and-shoot. The Canon G10 has 14, which is about 4-6 too many- it's a real drawback of the camera. Point-and-shoots sort of going downhill when they go over 8 mp IMHO, but you can't really find decent-featured 8mp P&S's anymore.

I'll be happy to help further if you have more questions.

[Kainas]

Thanks!

For now I would be happy to just have shutter speed control.

I know nothing about cameras. I would love to one day take something more than that, so I do want a camera that lets me 'dabble' in the more (you know, wet my feet to see if I want to get in).

[the_camera_poser]

G10 for you then. You could go for a Panasonic LX3 too- they are totally different beasts. Look them up on DP Review and read the conclusion section of the reviews. Either one will make you happy.

You can go for a lot less camera and still have manual control, but the G10 will keep you happy right up until you're ready for a DSLR, if you go that way.

[Chris]

One more suggestion: handle any camera before you commit yourself to buying. See how it feels in your hands when in use, ensure that you are seeing what you want to see in the viewfinder etc. This can really help if there is more than one camera which seems to fit your specifications and may prevent you from making an expensive mistake.

[Kainas]

Thanks so much for all you advise!

Now to get my sweetheart of a husband to read this post....(ahem birthday soon ahem)

[Kainas]

Okay, I went down the the local camera house today to check out some cameras.

My old camera is a Canon Powershot A75, is the powershot G10 the same sort of thing?
Also, the SX1 IS has 20x optical zoom...is this a better option?

[the_camera_poser]

With a superzoom you generally sacrifice a bit of image quality in exchange for the size and complexity of the lens. Having said that, they sure are useful. But with a normally-zooming digicam, you can get near to SLR-type shots in ideal conditions. Still, the superzooms are quite good. But do note, I would think they are useless for taking shots of moving things when zoomed-out, such as wildlife and birds, unless they are stationary. The lens diameter is too small for this sort of thing.

Another thing to think about it that you want the camera which can produce the best images at a high ISO, which means film speed in the pre-digital days. The LX3 is good at this, but the G10 does a good job too. The higher your ISO, the lower light you can photo in without a flash, which can become quite important.

The other thing you should strongly consider is the ability to add a flash and a remote you your camera. The flases that ocme with digicams are generally woeful, but for a couple of hundred bucks you can add an external flash that will greatly enhance the range of things you can do with it, but the camera has to have a hot shoe.

In my completely personal ad humble opinion, I'd stay away from most digicam manufacturers, as the image quality they produce is not so good. Nikon, for example, makes a great DSLR, but their digicams are a bit lackluster. Most of the panasonic superzooms I've held are nice, but a bit wobbly. Ricoh just doesn't have the image quality, and the same for Olympus.

To be totally honest with you, if you're going to spend $1000, this is what you should get:

http://www.digitalcamerawarehouse.com.a ... y889_1.htm

or this:

http://www.digitalcamerawarehouse.com.a ... y784_1.htm

[the_camera_poser]

This is an awesome deal, just make sure the 18-55 is the IS version...
http://www.harveynorman.com.au/products ... kit-1.html

[Ciaran]

This is an awesome deal, just make sure the 18-55 is the IS version...
http://www.harveynorman.com.au/products ... kit-1.html

I've been looking at cameras for a few weeks myself as I lost my small digicam to one lucky prowler and this looks like a good deal; I guess there would be an extra cost for IS with this camera deal. I was tending to go with a canon 450D at a price just under $950.00. Comes with the 18-55mm lens but again without IS. Have'nt spoken alot to many salespersons (?) as yet maybe you can enlighten me "tcm"?

[Kainas]

What is IS?

Those cameras look great by the way. I would need to get a flash though wouldn't I?

[the_camera_poser]

No, they all come with a flash- it's weak but it'll do the job admirably for a long time. They are stronger than the standard point-and-shoot's flash.

IS is image stabilization- it compensates for camera shake, and it very good for low-light shooting. The Canon 18-55 kit lens comes in two versions- the old version, which is EFS 18-55 II, and a new version, with IS. The IS version is dearer, but way better. If you can afford it, get it, if not, then don't worry, the kit lens takes good pics too.

The 450D is an awesome starter camera Ciaran- I reckon it's one of the best deals around.

Dont forget to watch on the classified sections of camera forums for good deals too.

[Kainas]

Ah then I think IS is a must...

Going through our billion photos I kept seeing a very common series of photos. They were mostly of me (so my husband is holding the camera).
Image 1: very blurry, through the blur you can see a definite smile on my face.
Image 2: pretty much the same image, slightly less blurry, less of a smile.
Image 3: nearly in-focus, the smile is gone.
Image 4: perfectly in focus, but the look of my face is closer to pissed off - "take the *&%$#! photo"

Actually I am not kidding, it was kind of funny, but annoying looking at shots that would have been very good had they been in focus.
e.g.

IMG_3442.jpg (57.35 KiB) Viewed 31577 times

[corvus]

LOL my phone camera pics are better than that (imho)
c

[the_camera_poser]

A couple of things could have happened with that shot. Most likely, the shutter speed was slow because the light was less than ideal, and you were moving, which makes it worse. IS will help with the non-moving parts of your shot, but with you moving, you'd need to do something else to make you in focus. Either use the flash, or raise the ISO, or open up the aperture. Other than the flash, these are all quite easy to do on a DSLR. The blurry background is definitely the result of camera shake- no question about it.

If you want to take any sort of serious landscape-type shots, and you don't want to lug a tripod or other camera support, IS is a must IMHO. It also gives you one less thing to worry about when you are learning.

Some cameras come with the IS (called something different on non-Canon cameras) built in to the body- so that you have IS no matter what lens you use. This can save you big bucks. I'm pretty sure Panasonic, Sony and Pentax have this. Pentax has a very affordable entry-level DSLR too- I just don't know anything about it. I've seen some nice shots from Pentax stuff, but IMHO it's not up to the level of Canon or Nikon. No offense Pentax users!!!

Do please bear in mind with all this- there's photographers on here with a lot more experience than me. There's heaps, and hopefully without stepping on anyone's toes, Tasadam and Mickeymoo are two that spring to mind. There are plenty of others- they are just the first two to spring to mind. I've seen an exhibition of Tasadam's stuff, and it's great, and I've been a big fan of Mickeymoo's stuff on at least two forums that I can think of. You might want to ask their opinions too.

As for the 4 photo sequence, it may be:

Shot 1- he sees the shot, pulls the camera up and snaps off the first shot without properly steadying it. The camera might still be in motion a bit when he hits the shutter release

Shot 2- the camera is in position, so it gets less camera shake effect, but still not totally braced.

Shot 3- you've posed, and have the irits with having to pose more, but he's finally got the camera all lined up and steady, and is ready to take the shot

Shot 4- he's got it all down pat, but you've lost interest.

To be honest, the best way to cure these problems is to post examples with the shooting data (shutter speed, ISO, aperture, etc etc) on a photography site in their comments and criticism section. You'll learn mountains that way, but make sure you join friendly forums, as there are some unpleasant ones out there. Feel free to PM me if you'd like a few links to the ones I've found most useful in my net-and-camera-addiction.

[Kainas]

Hey wow, I really appreciate the critique. I didn't there was so much involved!! (I should add....my photos were not a great deal better...)

[the_camera_poser]

Yeah- it's a bit of an art form, but once you get the basics down, how to handle it, shutter speed, aperture, film speed/ISO and focal length, it becomes much easier. There's a learning curve, and it seems boogling at first, but it's quite simple in fact.

[the_camera_poser]

take note though- none of the cameras I've recommended to you are water resistant. The Pentax entry-level DSLR may be- I'll look it up for you. If you want advanced camera and waterproof, your best to go with a G10 and a waterproof casing.

[Kainas]

Yeh, I have come to understand that water resistance will cost alot more on a better camera. However a better camera (then my old powershot A75) means that I can take shots from further away?

I have settled on the Canon 450D by the way.

[the_camera_poser]

VERY good choice. Light but fully featured. If I was starting out in photography again and knew what I know now, a 450D would be a no-brainer for me. The shots on my website (link at bottom) are all with Canon cameras that have less advanced sensors, and I've only been at it for 2 years, so you can see the potential.

For getting far-off shots, you need a telephoto lens- one of the two that comes with the camera if you get a kit is a 70-300. This lens will take distance shots. You may want to consider not getting this lens with your camera, and getting a Sigma 70-300 APO (It MUST be the APO version, the other is crap- I'll give you mine for free, but it's literally not worth the postage), as it is better. Anyhow, the key to taking distance shots is keeping the camera steady. The longer you zoom out, the more the camera is effected by camera shake. In the end, for really good shots over say 200mm, you need either a tripod or IS, but IS costs a fair bit more in a zoom lens. But for happy snaps, you can turn your ISO up to 400 (which allows you to keep your shutter speed faster and reduces camera shake) or even 800, and hold yourself really steady, and then plug away.

When you are budgeting for the camera, don't forget you are going to want a compact flash card (prob. 2 gig) and an extra battery. Also, you may want a camera bag of some sort, but wait until you have your goodies before getting that- you need to put stuff into the bag to make sure it's comfy and fits well. I really like Tamrac bags- you could go for a Tamrac Adventure 2. Have a look at http://www.tamrac.com. For water-resistant bags, you're looking more at http://www.lowepro.com.

Cheers!

[the_camera_poser]

Actually, the best thing to get if you can afford it is a 450D and a 18-55 IS / 55-250 IS combo kit. If you cant afford that, think long and hard about getting a 1000D and those two lenses, or just skip the 55-250 for now and start saving for it. It's not a bad little lens, for a kit lens.

[GerryDuke]

I have a couple of basic SLR's. A 6MP Panasonis FZ7 and an 8MP Canon Powershot S5IS. They are both a little slow in low light so like WalkinTas I carry a tripod everywhere. My budget is very limited.

I generally only do day walks as you can get quite a long way in a day - my longest being Mt Jerusalem return in a day. As the camers are light, I have one in hand all the time. The F value range is 2.7 to 8.0 only. With full manual control they can handle quite a bit.

I am a bit of a novice also so there is still a lot to learn. The main setting I change on the cameras in "Program" mode (and other modes where the camers allows) is the exposure. All cameras I have used I reduce the exposure by 2/3 rds. You can always brighten an image in Photoshop. I find an already over-exposed image won't darken very well. This provides better detail for the digital images and gives great blue sky. I purchased a polarizing lens for the FZ7. This made an amazing difference to the pictures - great clarity.

As I am getting on and my hiking days are limited I have ventured as much as I can in recent years.

I have developed a web site of the walks I have done. Like "son of a beach" - do you advertise or don't you? I have a few sponsors who help keep the site going. Thanks to this forum I continue to be amazed as to what Tasmania has to offer!!

Went to Rodway Valley Tuesday. An easy walk from the Ben Lomond Ski Village. See the site. Still want to do the plateau! Didn't quite get to the Giblin Fells as cloud started rolloing in.

Gerry Duke

[Son of a Beach]

Like "son of a beach" - do you advertise or don't you? I have a few sponsors who help keep the site going. Thanks to this forum I continue to be amazed as to what Tasmania has to offer!!

I do check out your site occasionally - there's some nice pictures there! In answer to the above question, check out this topic. In short, commercial advertising on this site will be accepted, however, I'm not currently going out of my way to recruit advertisers.

[Kainas]

When you are budgeting for the camera, don't forget you are going to want a compact flash card (prob. 2 gig) and an extra battery. Cheers!

Thanks for the advice, I hadn't even considered cards yet, but I do have several CF cards already. (I think I bought a 4 or 8gig card for the trip).

[Kainas]

Actually, the best thing to get if you can afford it is a 450D and a 18-55 IS / 55-250 IS combo kit. If you cant afford that, think long and hard about getting a 1000D and those two lenses, or just skip the 55-250 for now and start saving for it. It's not a bad little lens, for a kit lens.

What is the difference between the two? My husband bought the camera on the weekend (while I was in Melbourne), and he bought the 1000D (with lens kit) instead of the 450D. It wasn't a price thing, he just made a mistake. Will I notice the difference, and if so how?

Also: I have to say how quick it is compared to that old dead powershot A75 that I had. I used to have to wait a second or two for the photo to be taken, the 1000D takes it sooo quickly. I have only had a 5 minute play with it so far, I shall be checking it out more extensively over the weekend.

[the_camera_poser]

The 450D has a better autofocus system, is a bit more rugged, has a better viewfinder, has spot metering, 2 more MP and a bigger LCD. But other than the spot meter, none of it is critical to the actual image quality of the camera, which will be practically identical between the two, and will be a tad better than my 30D- samples of which you can see a plenty. I'd get the 450D if it is within $100 of the 1000D, but the 1000D is an ideal starter DSLR too. Now go shoot a bunch of photos!

Congrats- and welcome to the CANON side of things- and be prepared for a lot of people with....uh.....inferior (nikon) brands of camera (nikon) that I won't name (nikon) to be jealous of your camera. (nikon stinks)

Also, let me know if you want some links to places to get some knowledge. One friendly and supportive Aussie photo forum just started a beginner's board.

[Kainas]

Yes I would be interested in knowing of some places to starting learning. Thanks.

[the_camera_poser]

This is the site with the beginning photography board:

http://www.ausphotography.net.au

This site is dedicated to Canon, and is probably the best site for info, but it gets a bit boring after a while. Beware "pixel peepers" and "gear heads"- people more into the gear than the pictures. I got myself banned from there- it was fun. BUT, it's the best place around for learning about gear.

http://photography-on-the.net/forum

If birds are your flavour, this is THE place to be IMHO. These guys have some amazing talent.

http://www.birdingoz.com.au/

IMHO this is the best nature photography on the net, at least as far as I've found. They are helpful, but a bit condescending at times. Great work, but sometimes it lacks a bit of soul. But for the technical art of landscape photography, this is the site to go to....I've learned more here than anywhere, but be careful, they are a pretty picky bunch. They only like "perfect" photos, and "perfect" photos can be very boring.

http://www.naturescapes.net/docs/

This site is set up for beginners. It's a great place to learn the basics, but take their advice with a grain of salt- they are very "rule" driven, and the people who run it aren't the best photographers, but in general it's a pretty friendly place to learn the basics.

http://digital-photography-school.com/forum/index.php

This is a great place to start- a good discussion of the basics:

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/sho ... p?t=414088

I've got this in my favourites too, though I haven't been on there is yonks:

http://www.naturephotographers.net/index.html

This site is AWESOME for getting critique of your work:

http://www.tmelive.com/ - this site used to be The Radiant Vista, but there was a falling out or something, and it split up. Originally, they had a whole series of podcasts, but these are not on the new site- they have been adding a few over time though. Still a good site.

Finally, I get heaps from podcasts. Some of them are basic, like the Digital Story, and some are quite advanced, like The Mindful Eye (formerly The Radiant Vista)

http://www.tmelive.com/

http://www.thedigitalstory.com/podcast/ (look for the older ones in particular)

http://www.photography.ca/ (short but good podcasts)

[RobbieG]

Great discussion. "Camera poser" you have been providing some great advice. The links you provided are great.
I have a Canon 450D which is great, really happy with it. My mate has a 1000D which he also loves. The G10 Canon you mention is a fantastic point & shoot camera.
Happy snapping Kainas.