High mileage oil change on the old ute

[Moondog55]

I was way overdue for an oil change [ 3 months overdue] so I just did one with some cheap oil to get the crap out of the block.
Supercheap had the Ryco Z9HE oil filters on closeout at less than half price [ $5.77 Vs $14.99] so I used one of those and when I change the oil next I'll use the standard filter to get the 10k service interval
I'm wondering if it's worthwhile paying the premium price for one of the new "High mileage" engine oils or if I should simply continue to use the standard oil?
Standard oil being SG and almost any of the common multigrades up to SAE 50 but not lower than SAE 15W
So almost any oil out there will do the job

[South_Aussie_Hiker]

High quality oils such as fully synthetics are good for two things:
a) if you own a car which you drive on a track or which has a high performance engine (in which case the manufacturer would recommend it)
b) if you have a standard car, but you want to extend the time between services

A fully synthetic oil will remain more chemically stable over a long period of time and during periods of high stress.

A standard mineral oil absorbs water slowly. So you'll probably find if you change to a full synthetic, your oil level will go down moreso. Don't be alarmed if you oil has always stayed on the mark between changes, and then on a synthetic you find it down half a litre or so after 10,000km - it's not a big deal, you just keep it topped up.

Unless you want to extend your service intervals out a lot or have a high peformance car, you're best off sticking with a standard oil.

If you want to throw some extra money at it, start with the oil filter. Ryco are not a bad brand, but they make multi fit filters - the one you installed might be approved for lots of other cars, and so the pressure relief settings may be averaged out for a wide range of cars. A genuine filter will always have an anti-drain back valve, and the pressure relief function of the filter will be properly matched to your car.

The colour of the oil when you change it out is no indicator or whether the oil is or isn't doing a good job. Excellent quality oils can come out jet black, and poor oils can drain out quite clean - and vice versa. In fact, the only way to get any idea about how well the oil has performed and held up over time is to send it to a lab for oil analysis.

Maybe Google "bob is the oil guy". It's a good place to get started on the basic fundamentals.

[RonK]

No, old engine, old oil.

Using synthetics will likely see your worn old engine start burning it.

[Moondog55]

Just read through it, seems that the fellers at Autobarn and the websites oil finder are both wrong
An email from Castrol has just informed me that the best of their oils for my application is the thinner, the 10W-40 Magnatech So any of the similar oils will work as well but it is better not to mix oils I am always told so I like to keep the one in the back the same as in the engine
Still having trouble getting my head around this; that the thinner oils are actually better in an old engine, the opposite of what was generally known as the "Truth"
I'll just wait now for the next sale of that product as no point in paying $50- when it comes on sale all the time for $30- although I will need 2 of them as the old bus takes 5.5 litres and I must remember to half fill the filter before screwing it on
Ron I really don't think this engine is worn that much
I go though about a litre every 5000klicks or so and compression is still in the excellent range, I think it had new rings/bearings etc just before I bought it and I've only put about 35k on it in the last 3 years

[South_Aussie_Hiker]

Just stick with a basic oil in an older car like yours. The benefit of longer change intervals on a fully synthetic is a bit redundant when you're topping up all the time anyway.

High mileage oils have, among other things, additive packs which swell seals to reduce oil leaks. It might get you by temporarily, but it's only a temporary solution.

I'd just stick with a basic 15W-40 in your application and keep it topped up. Get a race car or something turbocharged, then you can look at synthetics.

Your consumption of 1L per 5k might seem like a lot, but it's quite okay.

I think you should switch to Penrite. They make a range of oils right up to racing grades. Best of all - they're Australian owned and made. Something like this from their standard range http://m.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/ ... tre/134030

[Gadgetgeek]

there are as many opinions on oil as there are on boots and tents. The best I can say is to stick with what you have been doing, running high-mileage oil might help the seals, but if they are not really worn, swelling them will wear them out, and the effect doesn't last if you change back to the old oil, and you end up with a leaky engine. The truth of the matter is that even regular oils are so good that unless you are towing, running in dusty conditions or having a lot of cold (-25C) starts, you are actually pretty easy on it. I know guys who have done oil testing and while one engine isn't data, the oil was still in great shape at changing. 10-40 sounds about right for an old engine in warm-hot temps.

[Moondog55]

`Actually I've never been worried about hot conditions, that's more related to cooling, but if I was I'd be putting on a GT sump; it was more the cold starting of the thicker multigrades
Been running standard GTX most of the time as it's cheap when on sale, I think what threw me is the change in spec from a 20W-50 to the new 10W -30 but when I checked the owners manual I was simply under the impression that the using an oil thinner than W15 wasn't a go
I didn't do my own oil changes the last few times as I paid for a full service as part of the rebuilds after the small bingle
I now know it doesn't matter that much
The Ryco Z9 HE is a 20 micron filter with a 5k service life interval as against the standard Z9 being a 40 micron filter with a 10k interval
Changing the oil at the right interval is probably more important than which oil I actually use but cold starts are an issue although -12C isn't really cold
I do have a tale about that tho

[Moondog55]

Seems that a lot of people are giving the Gulf-Western Syn300 a good report and as that is on sale this W/E I just might buy 3 jugs of that and do Ceciles Renault at the same time

[Moondog55]

Well I have been running the G&W Syn3000 for a week now and the engine is as quiet and responsive as it has ever been and quicker to start as well; which bodes well for the winter
What I do think I need is an engine oil cooler; as much for the extra oil volume and a cooler is much cheaper than a proper sized sump @$400-+